briandye Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 I have an 18" FI BTL I picked up about a year ago now maybe longer. I've had the runaround on amps, well kind of. Started off with one I bought brand new on Amazon, was a Hifonics Brutus (don't remember the exact model) but it was a 2100w @1 ohm, and say a dyno video that proved it. Great amp, but then it randomly decided it was gonna work when it wanted as if I had a loose remote wire, but I didn't. Returned it but they had no more in stock to send me so I was refunded. Picked up another step up which I think was a 2300w or 2400w @1 ohm but it didn't push nearly as hard and was quite a few bucks more. Returned it. Then I picked up a used BE2500.1D which seems to have great reviews. At the same time, I also switched vehicles, got new power wire as well. Same headunit though. I started with just one run of 0 gauge, but eventually ordered dual input adapters and now have two runs of 0 for each the power and ground. Adding the second ground seemed to help out a bit. I'm just wondering if the amp is somehow not getting enough power even with two runs or a bad ground. When I crank it up, (level is matched with the headunit pre-outs I think 4v) it starts clipping at a decently loud level. But when it was in my Edge, I could crank the thing so loud it drowned everything else out and rattled the interior apart. (I don't crank it up like that, but just making the point). Now in my Explorer (06) li can't even turn it up loud enough to rattle much or shake the mirrors before it starts clipping. Is this amp overrated? Should I try new grounds? Only issue is, I really don't have anywhere back there to ground besides where it's at, on the bolt that holds those little metal cargo tie down clips which is probably the equivalent of a seatbelt bolt. Metal was sanded down of course. 2006 Ford Explorer XLT
Jake Miles Mckeehan Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 What i have learned with hifonics is that they need as much power as humanly possible to make rated power. if the electrical is good it wont have a problem, but with some cases it just doesnt do very well. ive had the 1200.1 in an 02 escape and well....it did a shitty job, switched it over to a newer car with a better alt and the big 3 and well it worked alot better. so i think its just all about the electrical with them, or maybe its just getting a dirty signal from somewhere.
briandye Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Posted February 22, 2016 I'm gonna redo my grounds for the second time, but in a different location. I just have this hunch that's what it has to be. I've loved all my Hifonics amps except for the two I mentioned above with one having a remote issue. What is acceptable to ground on? I have a ton of just flat space but would sanding the paint down and then bolting the ground be enough? (I've never-not grounded on a bolt that's already there which is why I ask) 2006 Ford Explorer XLT
reedal Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 Chassis ground, cleaned to show shiny metal. Find a safe place to drill a hole and put a grommet for the wire to fit through, run the wire, put dielectric grease on the wire lug and bolt it to the chassis. Spray paint over it or liquid electrical tape (I'm partial to the liquid electrical tape). But that may not fix your issue. just a good way to ground. If you don't want to do that, then make a ground run from the amplifier to your front battery. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
n8ball2013 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 Who buys hifonics amps and has good electrical? They buy them because they are cheap. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Ron36 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 I'd buy a better amp . Sounds like you've been wasting a lot of time and money and can solve it all with a good amp. Don't mean to be a dick hifonics is like a good generic brand witch can't compare to a high line amp ,I've run hifonics in the past and when u go to a good amp the sound is just better it's good clean power. 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
Ron36 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 Dyno test are good but there is nothing better then testing it on your car and your electrical. 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
Jake Miles Mckeehan Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 Who buys hifonics amps and has good electrical? They buy them because they are cheap. well yeah, but its never a problem to have a good electrical system for when you finally buy something better
Ron36 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Posted February 22, 2016 Your starting with a great sub give that bitch a amp . 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
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