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Ground distribution bar


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When using a distribution bar for a ground connection would it make a difference if you used one or multiple runs to the chassis and then connecting seperate runs to batteries. Im just wondering if you need more runs to the chassis or sufficient surface area on the actual bar.

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this may not be completely accurate, but im pretty sure it will depend on the amperage you are pulling between all the runs.

if your only pulling say 300 amps, and as long as you use good 1/0 ofc wire, then 1 run to the frame SHOULD be sufficient.

but if you have 2 amps pulling 300a a piece, then you need 2 runs to the frame.

just because its a distribution point doesnt mean 1 run will be sufficient. its still all about amperage. pulling 400a thru a wire that is rated at 300a will have to much resistance.

its never a bad idea to have 1 to many runs to be on the safe side. if you second guess if 1 run will be enough, then run 2 and KNOW your safe

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It has to be equal to the power run so the ground does not become the bottle neck... if you are using 1 run of 1/0 for the + and its proper-sized to the draw you are pulling then it would be sufficient in a distribution bar..... if you do more on the ground side then the power becomes the bottle neck.... shorter cables are better than longer cables so most of the time the ground path is the better of the 2 and more attention is directed towards the power run..... are you using manufactured buss bars or making your own... I use 1/4" aluminum bar stock from home depot on my + and - runs no extra batterys 4awg cca on only maybe 1500rms

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  • 2 weeks later...

It has to be equal to the power run so the ground does not become the bottle neck... if you are using 1 run of 1/0 for the + and its proper-sized to the draw you are pulling then it would be sufficient in a distribution bar..... if you do more on the ground side then the power becomes the bottle neck.... shorter cables are better than longer cables so most of the time the ground path is the better of the 2 and more attention is directed towards the power run..... are you using manufactured buss bars or making your own... I use 1/4" aluminum bar stock from home depot on my + and - runs no extra batterys 4awg cca on only maybe 1500rms

Im gonna attempt to make my own hopefully, so if I have 2 runs of 0 gauge do I have to make the bars a specific size to handle the curren as well?
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The cross sectional area of the buss bar should be equal or greater than the total cross sectional area of the cables feeding it.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Yes. The length of the wire is not an issue at the short lengths used in a car.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I use the 1/8th inch aluminum bar stock from homedepot, both my + and - runs consist of double layers bolted together at 12 inches each at $11.63 for 48 inches.... I dont have any cool hookups for aluminum bar stock but I know in my setup these bars could probably pass current 4x what I am pushing.... do 4 layers and I cant see any problems with even 10kw..... but I didnt do any math

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