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I can't find jack shit for info on how to do this on my car, and no pre-made wiring kits other than 4 pin.

I'm picking up a camper, and will have to add a brake controller and the proper wiring for (I'm pretty sure) a 7-blade round plug (doubt it's the 7 round pin type).

I already have a 2" hitch, and because of the vehicle I have access to the 4-pin style plug in the back hatch where my jack is stored, seen below and in the video(~30s) if you want a better look.

hqdefault.jpg

http://youtu.be/3-RnIkJUhWQ

As much as I've looked so far, a proportional controller will be better than a timed controller, though it costs a few bucks more.

I will need the 7-blade plug+mounting plate for the back of the equinox.

What I'm thinking is,

-I should be able to tap into that connector in back for my tail light/turn signals

-there's a dedicated ground right in there already

-then run my positive fused(to front batt)

-trailer brake wire to the controller brake output

-find the reverse light wire somewhere? either

Controller +/- just splice in with + fused that's running to the back already, and find a ground or run that to front

-brake signal to back

-Stop signal to cold side of stoplight switch?

Then get those out of that pocket to the exterior somehow by the hitch?

Everything sound right?

I have been looking at etrailer.com as they seem pretty competitively priced and have support.

Here is the controller I am currently looking at: https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Draw-Tite/5535.html

With this so I don't cut that connector off: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Draw-Tite/20127.html

And the 7-blade universal kit: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html

Any extra insight would be great, this will be my first trailer brake wiring job because I didn't want to pay the shop $250 to likely butcher the fuck out of my wiring to put it in like the last owner did with the old 4-pin wiring.

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Correct, other than you should run a dedicated power line and fuse to the brake control itself, independent from the 12V to the rear.

And use decent fuse holders for them rather than those garbage circuit breakers.

You'll only need reverse if you either 1) have reverse lights on the camper or 2) a boat with surge brakes. Otherwise not necessary unless you want it just for future "in case"-es...

I use p/n 47185 7+4 way, cut off all the connectors, and hardwire it in. But I have spools of 12awg and waterproof fuse holders here to make it happen.

Static drops are my bag.

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Sounds like you have a good plan. I always use dielectric grease on my trailer connectors. It looks messy but it seals out the moisture from the contacts so they won't oxidize and corrode from the weather. Otherwise you will end up having to play with it every time you hook up.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I just looked and the trailer I'm getting doesn't have reverse lights. The lazy side of me says fuck it, the other says do it once do it right.

I'll definitely ditch the shitty looking breakers, and I know I have some thick 12ga speaker wire I could use. I'll check on getting some spools in other colors for the other stuff, don't want them all to end up the same 2 colors and have to label.

EDIT: and yeah, dielectric is a must and I'm about due for some more actually.

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