Jump to content

Is my fuse too big?


Recommended Posts

Posted

So on my way to work, my amp and subs stopped working. After about a week I finally had the time to check to see what I happened. I took out the dash to get behind the HU to see if all the wires were fine, and they were. I then disconnected the battery to check the fuse I have running towards the amp. I found that the fuse had somewhat melted the area around it. I figured this was the problem and plugged everything back in so I can head to a graduation ceremony. After I plugged everything though, my amp was receiving power and now everything works. Drove around all day with bass going hard at work and it cut off again. So I took it home, disconnected everything and checked the fuse. It came loose. Tightened it down and bam, started working. So I'm assuming the first time it went out because it got knocked loose or whatever. So I'm assuming that that was the only and I need to keep it tight. But now I'm left wondering what to do about the fuse and how it's getting way too hot.

Amp: DC Audio 1.5k
Subs: 2 DC Audio Lvl 2 12's
Wiring: SHCA 1/0
Battery: XS Power D3400
Fuse: Tspec 250a ANL

Is the fuse too big or something? I think I was talking about it to someone when I made the install and I don't remember why I had that fuse in the first place.

So any help would be great.

13240635_1233163120028100_82159711399247

Posted

for a 1.5k amp your fuse rateing should be about 150a

and if your tuned right you shouldnt be pulling more than that (if your clipping i think you would pull more)

i would say the heat is prolly just that the fuse is loose causeing a bad connect

Posted

Time for a new fuse holder with appropriate size fuse. A loose connection will cause heat wich is probably wat melted it to begin with. Make sure all connections are tight.

Posted

Hey thanks a lot a guys, I thought it might have been worse than just a loose connection. I'm going to go pick up a new holder and fuse because i had to use a flathead to pry open the plastic casing.

Posted

I am not familiar with DC amps but I do not believe they are fused. But when you fuse a wire, you mainly want to fuse to the wires rating. Then from a distro block if you have one. Fuse that wire to the rating of the amp that it requries.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Posted

thats why i dont like those fuse holders.. they seem to get hot

a bigger fuse wouldnt make it hot. its the resistance that makes it hot.. if the fuse was smaller than it should it makes it hot then melt.. its that cheap fuse holder that is giving you issues

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 998 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...