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Second Skin Audio

stereo integrity DS4 ?????


Bayuk89

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So back to my question, keep my SA-18's and buy a bigger amp rather than sell my SA-18's and buy the SI DS4's ? Regardless i need to buy a bigger amp but would the DS4's play lower and louder than my SA'18's ?

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You haven't even found out what your subs are capable of yet, amp first.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Lets put it this way, if your under powering your pair of 600watt rms woofers, how do you figure you will see a gain with a pair of 1200watt rms woofers?

If anything you will see the opposite, especially so if you put them in the same box the SA's are in.

 

 

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^^^^^^^^^ my two 600 watt subs are powered off a 1500 watt amp, which did about 1270 certified RMS and about 2000 in dynamic RMS on Big D Wiz dyno..... the more research i do i find that SMD and Big D Wiz say if the amp does at least its rating (1500 watts) or more in dynamic (musical) then the amp is "ok"..... i can only ASSUME that the 2000 watt dynamic RMS energy being sent to the subs, the subs can take that 2000 watts energy and make it into say..... 1200 watt music energy (600 watts each) ASSUMING i lose 800 watts of power due to it being a cheap PCB chinese board and box tuning..... this app i have on my tablet (woofer box builder) you plug in the sub T/S parameters, box size and tuning, cab frequency and amp power. It calculated on a graph my power will peak @ 38 hz @1030 watts so figure my subs play with 500-600 watts due to tuning and "impeadance rise" ive heard from many many many people these SA series subs really "stretch their legs" if they recieve 1k each, obviously with the amp i have and tuning they are only recieving their rated power. I need a bigger amp, prolly a quality 2.5k

And yes to the other question, if i cant power the SA-18's correct how would i power the SI subs. I would need a bigger amp just like i already do, also the SI subs need a bigger box so i would have to build a new one.

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The numbers on the AD-1 dont mean crap when your using those numbers to compare to an amp that has an actual constant changing resistive load.

There is no app on a phone that will tell you your impedance rise and your power and where it peaks.

Let alone even if it was possible to tell you that it would be 100% inaccurate once the box is put in the vehicle and you have cabin gain.

All you are talking is useless numbers that mean literately nothing unless you have a SMD AMM-1, or are hooked to a Termlab Magnum with the power sensor ( I am willing to bet numbers from these 2 sources will be drastically different then what you figured out on your app and graphed, they wont even be in the same ballpark).
All you are doing is ASSUMING wishful thinking.
Realistically your looking at 800 watts max from that amp with a resistive load.

 

 

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Damn baby way to lay down some truth ! I know the app i was using will give a very generic ball park idea, nothing like real time in vehicle off a term lab obviously.... i think the last time i clamped my amp it was just a hair over 900 watts at 40 hz.... that was my last build with 15's mabye this new box with my SA's it might be the same but hopefully more. Alot of my ideas come from wishful thinking and how i feel it will play out, sometimes it doesnt work and sometimes it does. If it doesnt work i reseach why and correct it.

I think i need a 2500 watt amp and the subs and me will be happy

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