ayoparky Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Posted July 26, 2016 Funnily enough I already sent a quote request to Singer alternators and so far so good. In terms of customer service, im already liking what im seeing, they got back to me real fast, gave me a quote on an alternator for my subaru based off of my total wattage, batteries, amp setup etc. For some reason i expected the price tag on the alternator to be high, but it was actually a reasonable price. Will report back how it goes the rest of the way with Singer, cause im pretty much decided now that is the alternator im gonna go with. Thank you for all the input so far, much appreciated.
s5300 Posted July 26, 2016 Report Posted July 26, 2016 Funnily enough I already sent a quote request to Singer alternators and so far so good. In terms of customer service, im already liking what im seeing, they got back to me real fast, gave me a quote on an alternator for my subaru based off of my total wattage, batteries, amp setup etc. For some reason i expected the price tag on the alternator to be high, but it was actually a reasonable price. Will report back how it goes the rest of the way with Singer, cause im pretty much decided now that is the alternator im gonna go with. Thank you for all the input so far, much appreciated. Singer is great, seriously can't go wrong with him. If you fuck something up bad, like crash your ride the day after you get it installed, he's been nice enough to help people fix things in the cheapest way possible. Unfortunately, my 370a is $750 shipped... so I have to wait for that. I'd call that a completely reasonable price too... I'm just broke.
xpoppadaddyx Posted July 26, 2016 Report Posted July 26, 2016 Yeah I got a direct bolt on 220a for my '14 Altima from Singer. Haven't installed it yet cause I'm still waiting on my new serpentine belt he suggested. The site is http://veyance.com/ but you can order them through Summit Racing placing in the part number. Let us know how it does. 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (Build) 2013 Nissan Altima (Build) Poppa's YouTube Channel Poppa's FB Page Poppa's Instagram
DLHgn Posted July 26, 2016 Report Posted July 26, 2016 I'm going to be totally honest with you, I don't know jack shit about what the hell DLHgn just said but it doesnt sound 100% correct based on the recommendation I got from this site and then the real world implementation of said advice for a 2500w system. I was recommended as close to 200a at idle as I could get and as high of a peak as I could, I ended up with a Singer hairpin 190/270 model and I'll tell you what, at idle at full tilt I dip ever so briefly into mid 11v. so for DLHgn to say that a 200a model will be good and even overkill for 3000w rms is just plain screwy to me. Email Mike at singer alternators and he will help you out. http://singeralternators.com/ Then something must be wrong with another part of the electrical. I know people running 3000W + on a stock alt and not dropping below 12.5v. You may need more/better bats. You can't just have one part of the electrical good and the rest sub par.
Wehan Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 I'm going to be totally honest with you, I don't know jack shit about what the hell DLHgn just said but it doesnt sound 100% correct based on the recommendation I got from this site and then the real world implementation of said advice for a 2500w system. I was recommended as close to 200a at idle as I could get and as high of a peak as I could, I ended up with a Singer hairpin 190/270 model and I'll tell you what, at idle at full tilt I dip ever so briefly into mid 11v. so for DLHgn to say that a 200a model will be good and even overkill for 3000w rms is just plain screwy to me. Email Mike at singer alternators and he will help you out. http://singeralternators.com/ Then something must be wrong with another part of the electrical. I know people running 3000W + on a stock alt and not dropping below 12.5v. You may need more/better bats. You can't just have one part of the electrical good and the rest sub par. Cool story, post video.
DLHgn Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 I'm going to be totally honest with you, I don't know jack shit about what the hell DLHgn just said but it doesnt sound 100% correct based on the recommendation I got from this site and then the real world implementation of said advice for a 2500w system. I was recommended as close to 200a at idle as I could get and as high of a peak as I could, I ended up with a Singer hairpin 190/270 model and I'll tell you what, at idle at full tilt I dip ever so briefly into mid 11v. so for DLHgn to say that a 200a model will be good and even overkill for 3000w rms is just plain screwy to me. Email Mike at singer alternators and he will help you out. http://singeralternators.com/ Then something must be wrong with another part of the electrical. I know people running 3000W + on a stock alt and not dropping below 12.5v. You may need more/better bats. You can't just have one part of the electrical good and the rest sub par. Cool story, post video. I don't have a video of that specific build but non the less, you're still making excuses for your poor electrical. Sorry, I can't fix it for you or I would. What are you running?
Wehan Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 At the time I tested and saw 11v (11.6 to be exact) I had My rockford t1500-1bdcp and rockford t1000-4ad running full tilt, my wipers on high, my blower fan on high, my rear defrost on, engine fan running and high beams on (seriously) doing a full on torture test on my newly installed alternator and electrical (big 3 with 0ga KNU OFC, Napa Legend Premium AGM group 34 (ask jeepandbass what these are capable of, very underrated) but this is what we size alternators for and it kept up absolutely just fine at idle hot!. I will concede the fact that I have the damn Chevy regulated output BS and I attribute the 11v dip to the computer going full retard on me because it jumped from 11.6 to 13.5 almost instantly within the same bass hit that knocked it down to 11.6.
DLHgn Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 Well, you may have been overloading that single battery. How much power is that battery rated for?
Masterbasser Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 mechman has great alternators aint you aint gotta wait forever to get them either. mines been running strong for year and a half now Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl
Wehan Posted July 27, 2016 Report Posted July 27, 2016 Fixed the battery type in original post, it's a Napa Legend Premium AGM. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NBP9834R/ Like I said, jeepandbass ran a single one on his setup pushing like 3.5kw and was totally fine, this leads me to believe it was the Chevy regulated output tripping up on me. anyways, right after this torture test I shipped out my 1000-4 so when I get my new one in I will do more testing to be sure.
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