bassl0va Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 Haha. yeah, that's kinda what I thought. but, either way, that amp is cheap enough and if I ever get doors that CAN handle that power, it's there to tap into. Yeah I was gonna say it's good if you decide to add a second set later or something. Better to have extra power than not enough. My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 There comes a point where they stop getting louder, and that is where you set the gain to on them. You could use a DD1 on it but i'm pretty sure you'll hit the speaker limit before that point. While it may not be a full 300w it will be more than most speakers are capable of taking. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notorious97200 Posted September 19, 2016 Report Share Posted September 19, 2016 IF YOUR SPEAKERS ARE 4 OHMS : I would rather get a 4 channel amp. You run it bridged. That will allow you to run active later if you want, or to add another set of speakers. I love JBL products ! Nice choice. Maybe you can find a JBL GTO 4 channel amp, for cheap. But the (Precision Power) PPI 900.4 is one of the amp they like here. I don't know if this set of comps is 2 or 4 Ohms. Need to check. black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp OEM head unit, Amplifiers : Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200. Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats. 2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3 ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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