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LPF, HPF, Please help, greatly thankful


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Hello, I am new to the car audio as in really wanting it to sound good. I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with a JVC KW-V120BT Head unit, Renegade REN 1100s 4 channel amp, Renegade Ren 850s Amp, Single 12' Kicker Comp D122 Sub, kenwood KFC-C6895P 6x8's, and Power Acoustik EF-60C Component 6.5"s.

What I really want to know is what I sent my LPF and HPF to on my 4ch amp and what I'll set my LPF on my Mono amp powering a single 12" kicker sub. From what I have seen online because I didst want to have to ask this question was that every speaker will have a different setting per what car its in, but what i want to know is a good starting point that I can start with without messing anything up before hand.

Here is the specs of everything

Kicker 12" comp D122, FR=27-500Hz, Peak 600watts-RMS 300watts, Sensitivity 88.3db, Impedance 2Ohms, Voice Coil Dual.

Power Acoustik EF-60c, FR=65- 20,000HZ, RMS 125watts, Sensitivity 92Db, 4Ohm's, Passive crossover Included, 2way full range.

Kenwood KFC-C6895P, FR=63- 20,000Hz, RMS 90watts, Sensitivity 88db, 4Ohm's, 3 way design

Renegade Ren 1100s, Rear--HP is from 80hz-2k hz, LP is from 50hz-250hz, Bass EQ 12,6,0. Front-- has 80hz-2k hz.

Renegade Ren850s, Has Bass EQ 0db-12db, Sub Sonic 15hz-55hz, Low Pass 40hz-150hz, Input level 5v- .02v

I have the PA Components up front in the doors and the Kenwood 6x8's in the rear doors, and of course the Sub in a ported box in the trunk.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I know I don't have a ton of money in my setup but of course want the best sound that I can atleast give myself. I will set the gains on them as that I can atleast do myself without help. also I know my head unit has a bunch of stuff built into it that I can do these setting on there, I just rather not do them on there as incase i lose power or someone messes with it and i lose everything saved. If anyone knows my HU and knows what it should be set that info would be helpful to. AGAIN Thanks for the help ahead of time...

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If you are using those passive crossovers that came with the power acoustics then u dont have to set any crossover settings on the amp. All u do is set those channels to FullPass/BandPass or whatever word ur amp uses to let all frequencies pass through. With those kenwoods, they are 3way passive coaxials, im not too sure about those but i think they also have some type of built in crossover network. If they do, then same thing with those, just set it to "Fullpass/Bandpass"

And for the sub maybe set the lowpass around the low 100s? Just dont set it too high. Ur amp is showing u that the highest it'll set ur filter is 150. So being that ur subwoofer FR is up to 500. Any setting u use from 150 and below is ok. Just try different LP levels and see which one gives to most complete bass. If ur mids/doorspeakers are getting pretty low and hitting some good bass then u can set ur sub even lower maybe 70s-80s? Just see which number gives u the most complete sound when u listen to it. Take my words lightly though, im a noob. Goodluck man.

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thanks for the reply. my only issue is that the rear 6x8's dont have a crossover built in and are not component speakers so I would think I need to sent the HPF for those atleast to something to be right.

Also with all that giving info, what would be a good starting HPF that I would start with if I didnt have a crossover on either the front or rear doors. thanks again for the help in advance.

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thanks for the reply. my only issue is that the rear 6x8's dont have a crossover built in and are not component speakers so I would think I need to sent the HPF for those atleast to something to be right.

Also with all that giving info, what would be a good starting HPF that I would start with if I didnt have a crossover on either the front or rear doors. thanks again for the help in advance.

Id suggest getting a tool to set the crossover points on the amp if u want to be precise. Something like the SMD tool CC-1. Those kenwood 3way coaxials must have something built into it to make all 3 drivers within the 3waycoaxial play correctly when theres only one + and one - wire connection. But if u really want, u could set the HP to the same point u set ur sub amp LP. I think the general idea is you want ur system to cover the entire 20-20k hz range. So for example if ur sub amp LP is set play 120hz and below, u could cut off ur 3ways HP at the same 120hz, maybe 110, somewhere around there. So they play everything above ur sub and play nothing ur sub is already playing. Again listening to it urself and adjusting accordingly.

If u wanted to run those front components active instead of passive. You might want another amp becuase you would then have 6 speakers u need to amplify. It might be possible to wire all that up to 4 channels but i think youd lose some tuning abilities. As for the xover for those if u ran it active, idk. Youd want to find out what the components two speakers FR is individualy. The FR of the tweet and mid. Then again trying to cover only the frequencies above ur sub with the two FR u find for the components.

Forgot to add that u should also try to find the RMS for the components when theyre ran separately. The rms that is given with it is refering to it as a passive component set, so the power is being sent to the passive crossover and that crossover is dividing the right amount of power to the mid and to the tweet from there. One thing i left out becuase i dont suggest it is utilizing the HU internal amp if it has one. If the rest of ur speakers or using external amp power, then have a couple speakers being powered by 20amp or less HU power? Seems kind of like things would be very unbalanced. So i wont suggest doing that.

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thanks alot. believe it or not but the way your wrote it makes total sense to me. I am going to look up that info right now and go from there. I ended up ordering the MB Quart OA800.4 to replace the Renegade Ren1100s. I just assumed that the renegade RMS x4 channels and wanted to upgrade since the MB Quarts was on sale dirt cheap.

As for the FR of the speakers I have had the sub at 80FR and the front and rear door speakers at 80FR aswell and just did it this morning so i didnt really have time to change it. I will change it and make it alttle higher but was wondering if it mattered if i did those changes on my HU or on the amps themself.

Thanks again in advice for any tips and help

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80FR? Im guessing u meant to say 80hz(hertz). FR usually means frequency range. Like the range of frequencies one speaker is able to play. So the 80hz is what ur sub amp LP is set at, and same for ur mids HP setting? Hows the music sounding? Try to listen to ONE song over and over with lots of detail and mid-bass and deep bass. Then you can tweek it higher maybe 100hz and see how u like the change. If its a "good" change to you, then u can keep going up maybe 110/115/120hz. Just keep tweeking it till ur ears are satisfied lol.

As for setting it on the amp or head unit. Like i said, you should really consider getting the CC-1 tool for setting crossovers on the amp. Its hard to tell exactly where 100/105/110/115/120hz is on the amps dail if there is only 80hz at one end and 2000hz on the other end lol, know what i mean? How would u know exactly where 100 is? Thats what the CC-1 tool is for. But if u use the headunit u might have better increments on there because it shows the numbers on the screen. So which ever one gives u more precision is the one id suggest u use.

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It doesn't matter if the crossover is accurate. If you are setting it by ear then there is no magic number.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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good starting point is LPF the sub at 100hz. then HPF the components at 80. this will give you a nice crossover blend. if the mids can't handle that low you can tune them up. but i wouldn't run a 12 sub in any kind of box above 110hz. keep in mind this is all personal opinion.

i just returned my amps this weekend. i had my mids HPF at 125hz since i am slightly over powering them. but i turned my gain down a little and tuned them down to 100hz. world of difference and so much fuller. even with the slightly less power (maybe 10 watts) the mids are performing much better. my system is all tuned at the amps with a DD-1 and CC-1. my decks filters are all turned off.

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Here is how I do it:

LPF at 80-100 Hz for the subs on the head unit.

HPF at 80-100 Hz for the other speakers on the head unit.

No bass boost, no BBE, no Loudness, no eq,...

Crossovers wide open on both amps : full pass for the mids and highs, on the highest frequencies for the bass amp.

Good luck.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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