sTp Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Hi guys i have currently started a project on my car and just need some help on what cables and fuses to use and how to wire them. Right so my setup is going to be 2 Zv5 15's running on a SCV-6000D wired to 1 ohm the car has a 210 HO alternator on it and the battery setup is 1 standard starting battery looking to upgrade to a XS power for the front in the future and have 2 Odyssey PC2150S for secondary. What i need to know is what wire size i need for the battery runs and amp was thinking Sky high 1/0 and what fuse size i need and how i connect it all up including grounds. And also is says i need a 500A fuse for the amp is that for both cables as it has 2 power connections or do you split it and run 2 250A as there 2 cables. If someone could do a diagram of it all it would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sTp Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Bump need some help on this as need to order the wires by today to get them for the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Do some research and figure it out, you'll get nothing but mixed answers here and you'll be left even more confused. I will tell you this, one 210amp alt and just the under hood battery will not be enough to properly feed that amp. Three to four + runs of 1/0 from the front to the back will be sufficient. I wouldn't use sky high.... Inb4 the you fuse for the wire guys. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 I'd get Knu cables instead: http://www.knukonceptz.com/ Sky High is cheapest for a reason. 1 run of 1/0 gauge OFC will get you 375A max.... I would fuse each run for 250A or run both runs to a 500A fuse holder, either way should work just fine. As for your electrical set-up. You are going to need more battery reserve... like 6 group 31's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 I almost bought an SVC6000 a while back. Make sure you fuse the cables at both ends. Fuse at front battery and at rear battery so if a cable gets pinched in an accident, the fuses will blow to disconnect the batteries. At least 3 runs of + 1/0 and one run of - 1/0. What car? Get a volt meter and use the volume knob to keep it above 12v. Try to post some pictures if you can. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Do some research and figure it out, you'll get nothing but mixed answers here and you'll be left even more confused. I will tell you this, one 210amp alt and just the under hood battery will not be enough to properly feed that amp. Three to four + runs of 1/0 from the front to the back will be sufficient. I wouldn't use sky high.... Inb4 the you fuse for the wire guys. If all he has is that alt and cheap battery up front 4 runs will do nothing more than what a single run can do. Upgrade your front battery and do a single run from the front to the back. Get some more bits from the back. That is where you should run 2 sets of positive and negative to the amp, from the back batteries On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 So it can't attempt to pull more current from the front battery because the alt isn't making it? So if your theory is correct how can it do so from the rear batteries? That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 So it can't attempt to pull more current from the front battery because the alt isn't making it? So if your theory is correct how can it do so from the rear batteries? Because if all he has is 300a or around that of possible current in the front, adding more wires won't make him be able to pull any more amperage he doesn't have. From the back battery back though on an amp that requires dual inputs, that is where doubling the wires is not only necessary but will help. If all his power can from the front, then doubling the wires would help. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 The amp will try and draw all the current it wants regardless of what that alt is putting out. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sTp Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Right so i got mixed answers on this as i think some of you didn't know i already had extra batteries. My current setup is Electrical 1 210 HO alternator with a external voltage regulator set to 14.6v ( was the biggest i could get on the car ) standard starting battery ( looking at upgrading to XS power one in the new year ) 2 Odyssey PC2150S for the rear Subs and amps 2 Zv5 15'' D1 wired down to 1 ohm 1 SCV-6000D How many more batts would you recommend as one guy above said 6 bare in mind this is going to be a daily car so won't be driving around full tilt all the time and also i don't think the system will ever see the full 1 ohm because of rise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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