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I've spec'd out a box using WINISD and Torres for my DC Audio Level 4 12" D1, and I want to make sure I get a second opinion on it before pulling the trigger. I plan on doing a plexi-glass panel on the front of the box to show off the motor and basket, so I want to make sure the box is right the first time around.
Here's the sub porn pics:
The sub box is 2.5 ft^3 Net with a 6" aeroport at 22" long tuned to 34 HZ. Plan to use a big ass port with an elbow to accomplish that length of port in this box so that both sub and port fire upwards. Dimensions are 15"hX15"dX33"w with a double baffle on the top (15"x33").
My biggest concern is if this box is too big for this sub. This seems to be the only size I was able to get this sub to play out well in WINISD with 1500 watts being put to it at a 2ohm load. I gained over 3.5 db on the Transfer Function Magnitude chart at roughly 44hz, and managed to keep the Port Velocity below 31.88 m/s peak, peak being at roughly 32 HZ. I also managed to keep the peak excursion at 22.3mm at 25 HZ, so the sub should never bottom out on even the lowest notes.
Does anyone see any improvements that can be made on this design? Or does anyone think this box is too big for this sub, who can manage to get proper port area for this sub with 1500 watts at 2 ohms to it without adding 1+ cubes to the box size in doing so?
Back with a new car, and a new build. 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback will be the new canvas.
And here is the Sub! DC Audio Level 4 12 D1 with direct leads, carbon fiber cap, and candy red basket:
So far I have designed a box in WINISD and Torres to come up with a 2.5 ft^3 Net box with a 22" long 6" aero port (Big Ass Port.) I will post up screenshots from each program to get a second look at the specs in the box building section.
Plan is to hook this bad boy up to my Rockford Fosgate T1500bdcp at 2 ohms, providing 1500 watts at a slightly higher efficiency than the amp provides at 1 ohm.
For the doors so far, we have some SSA Evil 6.5s tucked in with some NVX deadener and Stinger FAST Rings. Doors are definitely not complete, but it's a start.
Evils vs stock speakers:
This will be a slow build, but it's going to get exciting, so stay tuned!
I have Made a strong double floor/double baffle box with window bracing out of 3/4 MDF just a bit larger than spec . I am using white sewer pipe so I can run the sweep 90's and dual 4" precision port flares top and bottom for a single 12 in a test box and keep changing my tuning,
I have a cheapo db meter on the dash while running all my tests. Here's where I need you guys because I'm stumped. So why when I make the ports longer (tuned lower) would my 30 to 35hz range numbers drop? also why when I shorten the ports (tuned higher) would 56-62hz range numbers drop? I also cant figure out why I'm so peaky I have some notes like 40hz almost always falls on its face. Tuned at 31.5 and 32 it dies but tuned at 31 it doesn't? (I'm talking a whole 8db) I also usually have a drop at 42Hz,43hz,and 52hz. I'm just lost as to why the numbers are so jumpy between tests. Why its a steady climb with drops and then back to a steady climb then drops etc. I start at 30hz and go to 62hz during these tests.
I honestly always thought the low range to a point would gain at lower tuning while sacrificing some higher notes and vice versa. Can someone tell me from experience in a test box with meter is this normal and how do you decide on a final tune? Is there an easy way to rid myself of the random peaks and drops? Every time I change the tune some numbers go up and some numbers go down but not consistently on either end as you would think. It seems random. I love the 30-40 range
Thank you in advance for taking time to read and respond. This place is the best. If anyone can set me straight it will be here.
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