Box for 3 Sundown SA-10's

[kckrawford]

First time poster here.  I've been doing lots of research just haven't had anything viable to post up yet.  I recently bought 2 Sundown Audio SA-8's and put them on a Sundown SAE-1500D and used the box design that's on the Sundown Website, but that setup is fixing to go into the wife's car as i'm planning on running 3 SA-10's on a SCV-3000 wired @ 1.34ohm.

This is my first box design, so I'm hoping that I've accounted for everything including port area, tuning Freq., etc.  

View with the top on.  I'm going to do another top board so that i can do a flush mount around the subwoofers, just couldn't make sketchup draw it the way I wanted it.  (I'm still new to the program).  

View without the top showing the bracing and port sections.  The port sections are 1.5" in width each and 17" tall.  I'm hoping that this will work without alot of port noise.  (My biggest concern on the box design).  

You will notice that I didn't include the subs or bracing in the calculator.  The reason for this was when I ran the numbers from Sketchup on the internal volume of the box with the 2 braces in there, it came up to 6326.22in3 (which should work out to 3.66 cubic ft, then subtract the .3 for the subs, comes out to 3.36 cubic ft net internal volume).  Since the calculator was coming up with 3.37 without the subwoofers (not sure why this was working out like that), i just decided to leave it the way it was.  

 

So does it seem that the Port area / Port area per foot / and tuning freq all jive together? If not, what would you guys recommend.  I can't go any wider with the box (fitting in the back of 2017 Toyota 4Runner), but i could go a little deeper although i'm trying to not take up anymore room than what is necessary.  

Thanks. 

[Triticum Agricolam]

So there are two problems with your ports. At 1.5" x 17" they have a really high aspect ratio (over 10:1), which is going to make them inefficient.  You really don't want to go over 8:1 and keeping it under 5:1 would be better. 

The second problem is your ports aren't long enough. When you go from me port to two ports the port area gets cut in half but the length stays the same. So BOTH ports need to be 30" long.  

The easiest solution to both problems would be to redesign your box for a single large port. 

Other than the port issues it looks like you are off to a good start. 

[ckeeler11]

When i model on WinISD I get port velocities over 100 ft. sec. with 51 sq. in. of port you want to be around 76 sq. in. of port to get the velocities down to acceptable range.  That would be 17"x 4.5".  I'm no expert though.

[Ron36]

Make sure u post this build I have the same subs in a sealed box and when I trade my truck in I'm building a ported box , I like your design .

[kckrawford]

Redesign of the box.  Had to move the subs to the front.  Just no way to mount them on top with the port size corrected without making the box deeper than I want to.  

Updated shot of the numbers ran in Torres Calculator.  I added the subwoofer numbers this time. I figured out the last issue.  Since I didn't make both ports 30", that's where my internal volume was different between sketchup and torres.  It's almost spot on now.  This also moved my Port Ratio to 1:3.5 so that should be alot better.  Also puts me exactly at 16.00 in2 port area per foot.  

This setup improves the Port area to 56 in2 but I'm not sure i can get to 70+ and still be able to make the port long enough inside the box.  I'm not sure how to run the numbers in WinISD.  Alot of that is WAY over my head and beyond my understanding at this point.  

 

@Ron36 Will do bud.  I'm probably going to go with D2's so that I can wire them @ 1.34ohm.  I'm not sure I have the electrical for .67ohm on the SCV-3000.  I'm going to swap the stock battery for a XS-D3400R and add a second D3400R as well under the hood.  I will upgrade the stock alternator if needed, but the factory one is a 130A, but I can get a DC 270A if needed.  I'm trying to avoid that if possible.  I also have a SAE-50.4 that's powering my door speakers.  

This build will be in a 2017 Toyota 4Runner TRD Offroad.  I have already upgraded all the door speakers with Sundown 6 1/2's w/ components up front and co-axials in the rear.  Just trying to get some more bass.  The 2 SA8's are doing a fine job, but I want more.  

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Figuring it all out is the fun part. It's hard to keep the port in the box and still be big enough sometimes. I would still do .67 if not then you will always be wondering what it would do. Lol Tuned in for box build pictures.

[kckrawford]

@ShadeTreeMechanic

The Only issue I have with wiring @ 0.67ohm is the lack of electrical to drive that.  I plan on upgrading batteries with the new build, and will do upgraded alternator if necessary (but trying to stay away from that).  I have 1 run of 1/0 KnuKnoceptz wire run to the back, so i'm not sure if I would have to do another run or not.  I won't go as far as adding a battery bank to the rear cargo area just due to cargo volume restraints.  I still haul stuff from time to time in the back, and dont' want to give up all the room back there.  Part of the reason I went with a 4Runner instead of a Tacoma.  I'm trying to get the box designed out so that I can order parts next week, and will build the box as soon as I get on days off (roughly 10-12 days from now).  Just trying to make sure everything is in order before i start buying everything. 

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

No matter what you wire it to, you will have a volt meter to keep an eye on. Right? No matter how it's wired, when the voltage goes below 12 it's time to turn it down a little. At .67 it will just be sooner than later. In the end it's what ever you are comfortable with. Take some time to get to know your system. I'm still getting to know mine and every once in a while I can smell the coils. Lol

[kckrawford]

I will definitely install a volt meter.  I currently don't have one, but my Kenwood DDX9903S reads the battery voltage through the ODBII port, so I've been keeping an eye on that; but I only have about 1800 watts total at the moment.  I need to hook up a volt meter to compare the 2.  I'm sure the one on the Kenwood unit is slower to read than one wired straight in, so I've gotta get a good one in there.  

I didn't think about the fact that no matter the OHM, it will still drain on the electrical.  I will have to run some numbers on what I'll need electrical, but i'm hoping that 2 D3400R and an upgraded Alt will handle the load.  That's about the extent that I'm willing to go on the vehicle to avoid putting batteries in the rear.  

Thanks for the advice so far guys.  Excited to get this build under way.  I will post pictures of the box build as soon as i get it done.  I'm just hoping that the latest box design will work based on the numbers ran.  

 

[kckrawford]

So I came across a smoking deal on a X18 that was local, so I couldn't pass it up.  I'm either going to go with the X18 or 2 SA-12's.  I wanted to do the 3 SA-10's, but the amount of required power, and wiring configuration just wasn't something I was going to like.  I will more than likely end up running the 2 12's, as the box for this 18 is going to take up more room than I'm willing to give, but for the time being, i really just wanted to see what it would do.  I really don't want to have to get that involved in the electrical upgrade, so I figure i can run a SCV-2000D @ 1Ohm on the X18, or the SA-12's and upgrade the battery to a XS Power D3400R and I should be ok for the time being.  I will more than likely add a second D3400R in the near future for a 2nd battery, but I don't really want to get into battery banks and upgraded alternators.  

On that note, what do you think about the box specs below?  Tried to incorporate everything i've learned thus far on Port area, port area per foot, and port ratio, along with total net volume and frequency.  Tried to keep the bracing to a point that should provide adequate support, but not eat into net volume.  Also wanna give the kerf ports a shot as i think it makes the aesthetics of the box that much better.  I'm going to do Double baffle w/ a flush mount on top.  Should should allow for plenty of support on the sub.  

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them before I get started on the box.  Hoping to have the box built early next week.  I have the SCV-2000D on order and will be here Wednesday.