bmwking Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 so i was installing a volt gauge today to see what I actually drop to and noticed my positive block had done this: What would be a cause of this? my thoughts are pulling too much amperage combined with maybe shitty fuses? the power out that has melted is going to my sub amp. all grounds are good (and in the distro block partially in frame at the bottom right). the melted terminal is now leaning against the output terminal to my 4 channel. looks like a trip to the smd store is in my future for a new fuse block :/ should i not have gone with the mini fuse style? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Too much amperage for the ampacity of the wire/resistance from a loose connection. If that block that shifted is/was able to wiggle, and made contact with the other block it would have allowed the amp to pull more amperage from both blocks instead of just the one. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 on topic, does anyone other than mr meade make anl fuse blocks that are worth a shit? rather, can i find something that is 2/0 common in to 3-4 separate fused outputs? not sure i can stomach $60 for a fuse block :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 What redal said, bad connection. This is the problem with the set screw terminals. If the wire doesn't fill the hole, the set screw doesn't have much to clamp on to. Instead it pushes the strands to either side and only clamps a little bit of them. This is why the SMD style is so popular because you crimp a lug on the wire, which clamps all the strands. Then it is bolted to the fuse. Best and strongest connection available. Don't cheap out or you will burn your car down. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Just now, ShadeTreeMechanic said: What redal said, bad connection. This is the problem with the set screw terminals. If the wire doesn't fill the hole, the set screw doesn't have much to clamp on to. Instead it pushes the strands to either side and only clamps a little bit of them. This is why the SMD style is so popular because you crimp a lug on the wire, which clamps all the strands. Then it is bolted to the fuse. Best and strongest connection available. Don't cheap out or you will burn your car down. yeah i guess this is where i finally start putting on my big boy pants. is the smd fuse block the only one on the market? im in need of suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Toolmaker, Jims machineworx, 12v metal works im sure there's others SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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