Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
hayabusaboi06

need a new amp: 7.5k, 9k or 10k

Recommended Posts

 I have 3 orion HCCA 152 woofers that im running on some off brand 3500 watt amps.  I wanna go with one solid amp to run all 3 at a 1.33 ohm. this is a daily driver 2003 trailblazer but I want it to hump.  the woofer are rated at 2500rms/5000peak, I currently have 5 d3100's in the back, 1 redtop in the front that I want to change out but need to find a battery that will fit due to the dual alt bracket that holds a 240 mechman and a 370 mechman.  out of these 3 amps, which one would you recommend I run on those 3 woofers with my current setup.  thanks for any assistance you can give me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

7500Wrms is what you need at 1ohm, so I would go with a 10K at 1.33ohm.  Even then, you may not even be pulling RMS wattage.  The idea is to oversize your amp so that you dont push it into clipping.  Thats my opinion, anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree with the above. Outta those choices, I do the 10k. It will shit pm the 9k At 12v.

 At 1.3 ohm, you won't make a ton of power. I clamped 8400 on my dc 10k, and I was at .7. 

 

If it was me, I'd put a  4-5k on each at half ohm. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely better to stick with shorter boards... Cheaper when one shits the bed.  Plus, its harder to get rid of a large board versus a few smaller ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By tn2k
      I am curious. With DC Audio, can somebody help me understand the benefits of using the upgraded soft parts? Like for example Using a dc audio 12" level 3 motor with the upgraded level 4 coil spider and surround, as opposed to just getting a 12" level 4 motor and coil ? Would the level 3 motor with level 4 upgraded parts be more "musical" than a level 4 motor with level 4 coill? Obviously they would both handle the same power...
    • By Rich Schenk
      Hello my name is rich and i am currently building a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer my daily driver into a 5k daily driver. I have bemen doing car stereo since i was 15 and this is going to be the second most advanced system that i have ever put together. So need as much help and criticism as possible. Want to learn as much as i can and have a nice build.
      If you haven't read my other build log i started building a 97 hyundai Tiburon and after having my system up and going for a little over a month the trans blew. was loud as hell needed work but oh well. so had to find another daily driver and wasn't going to give up system so decided to go truck route (3 kids and one on the way.)

      My goals for this car are
      upper 140s-150 dbs (if possible and musical) (not metered yet) to learn as much as possible (fiberglassing, body work, vinyl work) decent sq (don't want subs to over power everything) start with equipment that i have and slowly but eventually build to bigger and better equipment Build it better then my 03 mitsubishi lancer oz rally (that i miss like a child) alpine iva-d310, pxa-h701, 420i, audiocontol matrix plus, ps2 slim in glovebox, cf Vr804, 2 Vr1000d, excessive amperage 200 amp alt, 2 kinetic power 2400, 1 run tsunami 0, big 3 0 Tsunami, 2 sets of cf x6s one front one rear, 2 mtx 9500 12in d4s, tons of dynamat extreme, varad 1000 color leds in front foot wells, yellow leds in pocket under radio, yellow florescent lights in door pockets walker front bumper canary yellow Loud and Clean daily driver (final goal) (demos, car shows, and competitions) Here is the list of the equipment that i currently have
      HU: pioneer deh 80prs (network mode on going active) RCAs: Streetwires, Connection Singer 340 six phase hairpin amp alternator XS Power D3400 under hood with Custom 1/2 Aluminum Bus Bars (made by me) 1/0 Gauge 3 runs SHCA OFC Big 4 double 1/0 OFC SHCA OFC and Stinger OFC (eventually All SHCA OFC) Distrobution Blocks SHCA, and directed audio 2 Stinger SVMR Voltmeter (Red) (one for front batt one for sub amp)
      Skar sk85.4 85x4 @ 4 ohms on 2 sb acoustics neo dome tweeters MMATS Sq4100 100x4 @ 4ohms on arc audio ks6006 Subs: 4 12in AB xfl d2s have 2 more chilling and a broken one Sub Amp: DC 5k with TM dual Inputs and TM quad speaker imputs 4 XS Power D3100s with custom 1/2 aluminum buss bars in rear (made by me) Here is a list of equipment that i want or need may change

      2 sets 6 1/2 ( 2 up Front) door pods Cpillar wall this biznatch!!! Eventually manup and bpillar this rammer Second skin pro Lots and Lots!!! get better HU and eq/processor​​ ( Pioneer 80prs )( and maybe a Tablet?)
    • By DC/FosgateBumpin
      I’m new to the forum, but have been a huge fan of Steve’s for a long time now. So naturally, I decided to come to his forum to hopefully get some advice on completing my system for my 2013 Impala LTZ. I already have a Pioneer AVH-x5800bhs installed, as well as some infinity kappa 6.5” components up front, and 6x9’s in the rear deck. They’re being pushed by my Fosgate t400.4. I’m having my sub enclosure built as I’m typing this. I’m running 2 DC Audio Level 4 15’s on a T2500.1bdcp. I just purchased the 8 channel Fosgate 360.3. Wanting to upgrade my components up front to something that can handle the power that t400.4 puts out, running an active front stage on that amp. Ordered a t400-2 to run some rear fill, so I’m gonna need some good 6x9’s to run on the t400-2. I don’t want to do any door mods to fit anything  I’d prefer something that will work in he factory locations with as little customization as possible. 
      Can anyone suggest some mids and highs for me? 
      Won’t let me upload pics of my subs and amps. File sizes must be too large since that error message keeps popping up. 
      Update- link to pics below  
      https://postimg.org/gallery/1u7obg2a6/
    • By WalledSonic
      I've been helping a buddy install a system in his 2016 Jeep Wrangler JK.  I finally have enough pics to start a build log, so I'll be loading all of them up over the next couple weeks.
      The requirements were simple: he wanted (4) 8's or nothing at all.  Silly?  Maybe; but we met the requirements and hope to be banging before the end of the year
      The stock sub (an 8x10) has 4 voice coils


      Ran some numbers in TermLab at first, but then switched the design over to WinISD.  Came up with this size enclosure:



      That router feels good man



      Went with PSI-8's with High Performance suspension for 600Wrms per sub

      We were jammin some of that good techno

      The original plan was to have a few tube ports, but I had a hunch that they were too small.  Thats about the time that Triticum came out with his port velocity calculator, and I realized the port velocities with these small ports would give me the tuning we were wanting, but also gave us almost 100 m/s port velocity (yikes!)

      Then the design changed to have a properly sized port attached to the back panel, bringing the velocities down to around 25-30 m/s

      I didnt really trust my kerf skills yet

      More pics coming tomorrow.  Thanks for looking!
       
    • By WalledSonic
      Buddy's new (new to us) amp.  Got it used through Cody at Droppin Hz for a good price.
      Brands inside: 
      CapXon
      Samwha
      Samyoung
      On to the pics:
      Very interesting heat sink




      Amp was built one year ago and warranty is non-transferrable, so off comes the warranty stickers

      Sweep shots



      Details







      Used alcohol to remove the warranty stickers

      Cant wait to get this badboy playing down at half ohm
       
       
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 212 Guests (See full list)