Sloppy hamfingers Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 2002 Honda Civic lx sedan 34” wide 15” high 18” deep is the space I’m willing to sacrifice, if need be the depth can grow by 2-6” and width can go 36 but only if need be, hopefully smaller. Two 4ohm svc jbl cx 1200 subs 250 watts rms sensitivity-90db freq response 35-200 hz mounting depth 6-1/16” cutout 11” overall 12.25” I can list theile perimeters if necessary amp is alpine mrv-m500 mono 500 watts, birth sheet says 543 amps. i will be buying 4 awg wiring kit, soundqubed I’m thinking or $69 kicker amp kit. I have an alpine single din head unit now but getting a Pioneer DEH-80prs. Id like to have the port be vertical rectangular in middle or one per end doesn’t matter. I’d also very much appreciate a cut list due to having to figure in for the thickness of the .750 mdf. Thanks very much and hope to get started ASAP I bought a sheet of mdf, several large clamps, and a bottle of Titebond 3 glue and will be buying a air gun, 18 or 16 gauge brads 1.625” or should it be crown staples? Thanks again for any and all help. Looking forward to getting started. Also, the head unit points up at an angle, is there a mounting kit to give me a more straight angle on my head unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineNut Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Keep the Alpine ul be happier, Pioneer HU's fail big time. This was taken from JBL from the owners manual. "CX Series subwoofers are optimized to perform best in small, sealed, vented and prefabricated band-pass enclosures. While infinite-baffle mounting of CX Series subs is possible, power handling will be greatly compromised because there’s no enclosed volume of air to prevent the speaker’s cone from moving past its limit. For this reason, infinite- baffle mounting is not recommended for CX Series subwoofers" https://www.jbl.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw3dab5c68/pdfs/Technical data- CX1200 (English).pdf 73456w9vbwevsdb sodtbsorutnvsd sdtuspdun sd d f gsdfiusd gdf n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 52 minutes ago, Jake Pace said: Keep the Alpine ul be happier, Pioneer HU's fail big time. you have some proof of that? I've had my 80prs since fall/winter of 2014, and the only issue I've had with it was a ground issue after moving it from my Explorer to my Tahoe that was installer error on my part. fixed ground, screen stopped flashing randomly. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloppy hamfingers Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 I don’t understand your post, I’m looking to build a box, are u thinking I want to run them open air or infinite baffle? Not being a smart ass, honestly I don’t know what ur saying about the subs, to me it sounds like you’re saying to get different ones or?? Maybe I’m misunderstanding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 he quoted what the manufacturer recommended. sometimes it's ok, most times not. have a little patience, and a few of the good designers will surely be along to help you out SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 So here is a suggestion, power: to subs rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 4", figure is just an assembly guide: NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloppy hamfingers Posted January 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Nice design, however I’m trying to figure out the braces, are they going to change anything? Is that wood dowels? Would it be a lot more trouble to put the port in the middle? I’d also like to add small 45s in each corner will you have to figure that into the dimensions? Does the dimensions have to be that exact for it to function correctly? If someone rounded up to the nearest inch and put in braces wherever they wanted would the sound change that much? I guess it’s just hard to figure out why things have to be so perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 1 hour ago, Sloppy hamfingers said: Nice design, however I’m trying to figure out the braces, are they going to change anything? Is that wood dowels? Would it be a lot more trouble to put the port in the middle? I’d also like to add small 45s in each corner will you have to figure that into the dimensions? Does the dimensions have to be that exact for it to function correctly? If someone rounded up to the nearest inch and put in braces wherever they wanted would the sound change that much? I guess it’s just hard to figure out why things have to be so perfect. With the port in the middle, you essentially add a extra port piece (which takes up space) therefore the overall box will need to be bigger to get the same volume and tuning. The braces, in this case look like wooden dowels (1" + in diameter), help reduce panel flex in the bigger panel as well as supporting the side that has the speaker (most weight) in it, i.e. the baffle. The braces are where they are for a reason. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy95 Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 On 1/7/2018 at 2:25 AM, Jake Pace said: Keep the Alpine ul be happier, Pioneer HU's fail big time. 80prs is one of the most popular head units in the car audio game... they work great and a lot of people have great success with them... And OP I would go with titebond 2 (easier to work with that 3). Also, if you have enough clamps and time you can technically build the box without screws/brads/nails/etc. if you let the box cure long enough under pressure (clamped together). Just might have to do a couple piece at a time and make sure you put it together in a certain order. Brads will work fine, just let the box sit for a day after building before beating on it to let the glue fully dry since brads don't have the best clamping strength. As far as the headunit, we will need to see pics on how it is installed (what dash kit or whatever) to see if you can easily mod it or if it is the specific vehicle that forces it to be angled. Also, Joe X's box looks good. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloppy hamfingers Posted January 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Ok, gonna start my build to these specs. Would you double the front pc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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