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Reverse trigger wire located under driver door 2014 Ram 1500 crewcab 4x4 Hemi


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Got my reverse rear view mirror monitor wired up after two days of trying things, just need to get the old mirror button off the windshield without breaking the windshield then glue the new one on. Truck came with a revcam wired up to the stock headunit. Im changing out the headunit and didnt want to lose that revcam feature. So i found a nice rear mirror monitor that does some cool stuff. Heres what i did to get it all wired up.

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So i removed the tail lights and cross checked wire colors with diagrams online. I need one of the white w/orange strip wires, there are two on the taillight plug. I follow the harness under the truck and both tail lights go to the same harness under the tailgate and runs all the way to the front. The harness goes along the frame and connects to a big plug/molex under the front of the drivers door and then the other end of the plugs wires goes into the cabin to an even bigger bundle of wires thats hard to separate. 

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So i figure it will be easier for me to tap into the signal from right under the driver door. Set up my tools and got to cuttin. Mind you my FLUKE is dead, apparently I forgot to turn it to "off" lol. So i used my wire strippers and stretched open (NOT CUT) a section of one of the three white/orange wires, yes three under here lol. Got lucky on the first try BUT the screen would come on only when in reverse as it should but it would flicker on the screen. Thought i had the wrong white/orange so i tried another. Thats why theres two wires stretched open, first one turned out to be the right one tho FML lol i had it right the first try. I found out that my mirrors harness was bad on one set of cams wires (it can do two cams). So i switched to the second cams plug and trigger and it worked perfectly.

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This is the loom and grommet that the previous owner set up to run the tailgate cam into the cabin, i used the same loom and grommet to run my rev signal into the cabin.

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Thats my new wire and the tailgate cams harness (grnd/pwr/videoRCA) coming thru that grommet.

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Used a probes pointy  tip to spread a gap between the wire strands so i can pass my new wire thru the gap and wrap it around.

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Passed thru and wrapped around. Also tesa taped up that other wire i stretched open.

 

 

 

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Used a small peice of the thick cardboard i was laying on to isolate the wire i needed to solder, that way i dont burn the other wires.

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Then soldered

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Then tesa taped the joint

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Then taped the loom so the slight tension doesnt let the yellow wire slip out of the split loom.

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Retaped the whole harness as it was. Didnt want to bend the solder joint so i left it like that and taped all arund it. Btw this is marine grade Ancor brand 14awg tinned copper wire. I didnt want to waste all that wire to run all the way to the tail light, also didnt want to fallow that harness becuase it was hard to see, let alone reach on the frame.

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Cleaned up the new mirrors harness buy tapping up the wires and plugs that wont be used (cam1rca/cam1triggerwire/audioRCAleft/audioRCAright). All i need from the new harness is the Accessory power wire/ground wire/cam2rca/cam2triggerwire.

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Heres where i tapped into accessory power. Behind the 12vcig lighter plug. I tied both the tailgate cams power and the new mirrors power into that plug. The cam is the red coming from top, and the mirror harness is coming from the bottom. Cut the cigs power wire so i could join the cam on one end and the mirror on the other end then twist both pairs together.32907DAC-BE30-428F-AFC3-65A29CC1A3FA.thumb.jpeg.68bc5a1e5496cef8dcc500589057252b.jpeg2244752A-27C2-46E2-B31D-A7E06C166FC9.thumb.jpeg.fbbf2c6d2e9e61899931fc28360c5605.jpeg

heat shrink was slightly to small to go over the joint completly so i added tesa tape.

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Soldered up the Mirrors power to the mirrors portion of that ciglighter joint from previous post.

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Forgot to show the revsignal  solder connection but its the same basically. Heres the end result, used the factory ground point, thick metal bracket and big screw bolt. Torqued it down good, u can kinna see it on the top right area. Doubled checked to make sure the mirror still works then buttoned up after that and ran the harness under the steering colum and up the A pillar and across the headliner. Thats it, done wiring. I know the solder joints dont look the greatest lol but it hopefully lasts. I need a new tip for the gun, it sucks.6AAF0A2C-B4D1-4EB9-8959-4CFEEE6CD05A.thumb.jpeg.0a16d73fd34728e231bfa64b31fe53d6.jpegi

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But what about the build log?? This stuff will be lost in the subforum in a month. 

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

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7 hours ago, WalledSonic said:

But what about the build log?? This stuff will be lost in the subforum in a month. 

Lol yah it will get burried soon. Ill include this in the buildlog. I didnt wanna start the BL till im doing more of the audio side of the build. I just posted this and the steering wheel control kit threads as more of a "how to" for others with this truck that might be lookin to do the same upgrades/changes. 

I took two weeks vac from work to get some work done. Its rained everyday of my vacation so far lol. Working inbetween the rain sucks. Glad i was able to get a couple things done so far. Lots to go still, not to mention the other build lol.

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Now its completly installed. I took it to the local windshield replacment shop, figure they'd be the best bet to do it right. Scary thing was even they didnt want to do it because it might crack the windshield. They tried to recommend just gluing the new button on the side of the old one. So i told them try to remove it and if you feel its getting too close to breaking then ill settle for gluing it on the side. They were able to remove the old button safely, cost $85 tho. Still glad i had them do it. Mirrors mounted and wired up.

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Cam off/disengaged = regular mirror

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Put gear in reverse and the 7inch wide screen appears. You can also mirror ur phones screen for navigation if u want or whatever. And it can be half screen phone and half screen back cam. Or just one half screen of ur choosing. Pretty cool mirror, i like the oem look. 

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