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Your current headunit does 17 watt rms so it would be a good jump up to go with the one I linked.

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Are you getting the most out of that sub and amp though? it should be pretty beastly if setup right. What impedance are you wired to and have you metered your output to see what kind of wattage you're actually pulling? 

And whats the specs on that box?

Edited by k58.cross

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On ‎2‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 12:10 PM, k58.cross said:

Are you getting the most out of that sub and amp though? it should be pretty beastly if setup right. What impedance are you wired to and have you metered your output to see what kind of wattage you're actually pulling? 

And whats the specs on that box?

It hits pretty hard for real. I wired the sub  to 1 ohm, so I'm getting the most outta the amp. It was just ok at first, but once the spider stretched out it really started flexing. I just got a clamp meter last week. I haven't clamped anything yet...lol... I'm still learning how to use it. The box is made outta 3\4 MDF. I got 2 pieces for the baffle. It's right around 3 cubes, just a lil over. The recommended box size was like 3.65, but I cut it back just a bit and stuffed 3lbs of poly in it to help compensate for the loss. I did it in preparation of porting the box with an aeroport. I knew I would get antsy and release the beast...hahahaha. I didn't want to have to build another box later. I just upgraded my door speakers. I bought Orion XTR 68.2 all around my 4 doors. Next week I am going to upgrade my H\U. It was suggested to me to get the Sony MEX-XB120BT, and so I'm gonna order it from Crutchfield now that its gone on sale. I like that crutchfield gives you the wiring accessories. I have been pondering a few things. I like massive SPL, but I love SQ. I'm looking at some 12's to amplify the bass spectrum (80hz-250hz), and 8's for mid bass (250hz-500hz). I think I can get it in the truck...lol. I want to finish the highs out with 4 Orion HCCA 6.5 super midrange speakers, and 4 HCCA bullet tweeters. I'm going to have to go back and upgrade my wiring to 2\0, get a second battery, and possibly an active crossover. I'm gonna wait and see what the capabilities of this ne H\U are first. I'm going all in and getting a XS D7500 battery to go with my D3400. I believe that should be enough battery. I would really like to cut a blow-thru in the cab of my truck and add a 2nd 15, but I'm not pursuing it. I might wait until I get a vehicle with more cubes. I'm already losing some hearing now...lol I hear crickets or locusts in my ears most days now, I totally skipped the ringing hahaha. I just cant help myself.

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I'd be really interested in how well using those extra speakers works to round out your bass and midbass spectrum. I thought about using multiple boxes earlier on, but I'm worried it's just going to cause cancellations instead of creating bass "fill" like I imagined. Keep us updated on that!

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Update:

So my sub just quit working. No smoke, no smell, just quit. I tested the connection on my box with the ohm meter fearing that I blew a coil, and got no reading. So I took the sub outta the box and tested the inputs directly. Same result. I was looking at recone videos ( this is one main reason I chose this sub. The ease of reconning) and noticed the blown spiders in some of the other videos. It looked like the tinsel leads burnt within the spider. So I turned my sub over and began inspecting the spiders more carefully. And sure enough, I have the tell-tale marks of burnt tinsel leads, as well as the spider tearing away from the coil....sigh. The burnt tinsel leads would explain why there is no resistance whatsoever. This is strange to me seeing as I use a 2500 watt rms amplifier matching the subs rms. I am telling myself that perhaps the sub is just cheap. I have only had it 4 months. I suppose I have abused it a bit. I recently went on a longer drive than normal, and I jammed it a bit during the trip..an hours drive I believe. Guessing this is what damaged the sub. I am beginning to believe that  higher powered subwoofers (2000 watts rms and higher)  are not meant for continuous play at high levels of volume. Could this be why Kicker does not manufacture high power speakers? I know that they are juvenile in power, but in quality and continuity they excel. Could anyone recommend another brand that makes a high power speaker (2000 watts rms and up) that can handle continuous play at high volume for longer periods of time? Also, what is the Orion's deficiency? Is it in the material of the spider, or the tinsel? Is this a problem with all competition subwoofers? Thinking about going with 2 Skar audio ZVX 15v2. My Orion 2500.1Dz should push two of them nicely @ 14v.

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High powered subwoofers can be played for hours on end with zero problems in the proper application. I don't know what burns tinsel leads but I would imagine it is a short of some kind. I'm not sure if clipping/dirty music would cause this. Hopefully someone with some more knowledge will chime in.


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If you are burning tinsels, you are giving the sub a dirty signal or overpowering it. Any speaker is made to last a long time with rated power even if it's over 2000 Watts. And kicker doesn't make high power speakers because it's a niche market and they tend to lean towards the normal person that doesn't want to violently shake their car to pieces but have a little extra thump in their music. 

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I don't know about dirty signals, but I could be clipping it. This amp pushes way more than 2500 rms according to BigD. I'm getting an oscope this week, and the new H/U. I'll set all my levels correctly this time around. Its hard to hear distortion with the poly cone. 

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Update:

I reconed the sub. I got some rattling going on. I think I over tightened the spider plate misaligning the coil. I'm going to remove the sub from the box and tinker with it while I got it hooked up playing some test tones. I installed the head unit. Woooooowwwww, what a difference. I got no background interference, static, or any kind of buzzing. I haven't hooked my oscope up to it yet, but if there is any distortion it has to be between 45-50 on the level, because I can't detect it with my ears. I got my oscope today too. It is an etepon that has already been assembled. Nothin fancy, but it should work well for car audio. I'm gonna work on 80hz-250hz next. Anybody have any suggestions for speaker size and power range? I want to try and balance out the sound with the sub bass I already have without drowning it out.

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