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Good day all. For some time now i've been having issues with the current for my system. My vehicle (Toyota 141 08' Fielder Wagon) has a stock 80A alternator. Upgraded my battery to a Northstar 76AH AGM a couple months now. My main issues are that the computer apparently regulates the voltage down from 14.1v at startup to 13.2v & that my vehicle idles at around 625 rpm. i was told this is normal for this vehicle?

i'm currently in the process of modifying/upgrading my alternator. Someone was recommended to me to have this done & as far as i am aware, he is installing a new rectifier with additional/larger diodes etc. Is this enough to get a significant increase in current/output? The same person is also installing an external regulator in order to bypass the computer regulation which will hopefully give me 14.1v+. That hopefully "solves" one issue. The other issue would be that even with higher regulation & a "higher output" alternator, my rpm is still very low at idle. Is anyone familiar enough with this vehicle to suggest a way to increase my idle rpm?

Also currently in the process of re-doing a full 0g OFC run front to back, big 3 & adding a 105AH Northstar to the back. Full system will probably pull 400A-500A. My previous wiring was using regular 0g of a lesser quality. Will be using the old front to back run as a ground run.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks ;)

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0 gauge ofc has a current capacity of maximum 350 A. I fuse my sky high ofc runs at 300 A to play it safe. If your planning on pulling 400-500 A you need to use that other lesser 0 gauge as a positive run and ground to the vehicle with a solid ground. Use a dmm to check resistance to your power wire and a possible grounding location. Lower the resistance the better and avoid any seatbelt bolts they don’t work so good. 

What amps will you be using ? What will your new alternator output after this upgrade ? With 400-500 A of draw your looking at needing either a lot of reserve or a high output alternator. 

Edited by Joshdashef
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My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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Thanks for the quick response bro!

Was actually wondering if one run would be suffieicent. Was told by multiple known installers & experienced techs that it would be. The completed system will consist of Orion XTR amps for now. 2500.1dz, 1700.4, 750.4 & 750.2. These from my research are pretty power hungry. Was considering Sundown amps but not quite convinced yet as to if the extra cost is worth it. If anyone can give their take on that topic also, would be very helpful. i currently have the 2500.1dz & 1700.4 installed in the vehicle.

If it is necessary i will do another run of 0g.

The alternator upgrade is, according to the technician, supposedly going to output close to 250A. Does that make sense? It's a daily driven personal system, not for competition by any means. Just want to know that my equipment is powered properly & not starving for current. Want to keep everything cool & efficient & able to run for extended periods if necessary. i never play with the vehicle switched off.

Was also told that the seatbelt bolt is a reliable ground by multiple sources over the years O_o Currently have my amps grounded there.

Edited by image91
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That’s the weird part about this hobby  everyone has their opinion 😂. Really if it’s been working why change it ? Your ground that is. 

My alt is a 240 A and I run a dc 2k with a P600X4 but I have two xs batteries as reserve. I still dip into 13.8 on full tilts but my resting is at 14.2 thanks to Honda’s eld. I really got to get an external regulator to bump it up. 

Anyways, as far as runs of 1/0 goes I always go based off of the max current capability since no more can go through it without the fires of car audio he’ll erupting in your new system. Since your planning on running four amps, 2 four channels and 2 mono blocks I’m guessing you’ll want to use two or more runs of 1/0 depending on the Fuse ratings of those amps. I’d just run into a battery than use it as a distribution center for all your amps - works for my two pretty easily. 

Even if your on the fringe of a second or third run do three just for shits and giggles you’ll be set for any future upgrades. That’s what I did and I’m glad. A single run would have worked but with two I can upgrade to another 2k or a 5k if I get some more reserve. 

Like always all this is my 0.02 

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My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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& a lot of the time people's opinions aren't based on anything but word of mouth unfortunately. Lol

13.8 full tilt is like a dream for me. Hell, 13.8 on idle is a dream for me. Haha. That 13.2 is depressing. Will see how the regulator/alt works out on Monday if all goes well. 

i actually made an error, corrected it now. The 4th amp is a 750.2, not a second mono. Typo. My bad. 

The 2nd run actually sounds like a good plan. Will strongly consider it. 

Is 250A from my stock casing & a rectifier upgrade practical/possible though? Sounds like a lot to me.

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Ah okay a 2 channel then. 

I hope your rebuilt upgraded alt works out man. 

I’d say the 250 A alt with a rear reserve battery would do you good. I like xs power batts but optima, limitless lithium, kinetic, etc. are good brands. 

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1

My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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Thanks bro, appreciated 😃

Hope you get your regulator adjusted & you extra 0.2v. The more the merrier. 

Really hope the rebuild & upgrades work out well. Heard really good things about the Northstar batteries so decided to give them a go. 

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Sooo, alternator/regulator upgrade plan got scrapped. 

Reverted to previous plan. Mechman 240A with build in regulator. Got some more encouragement to do the second 0g run so two it is. 

Will the 75AH & 105AH Northstars be sufficient?

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Internal or external regulator, any one that will bypass the data line will work. Don't stress this, its not hard to do.

If you cant find any way to boost idle, you might want to look into the smallest pulley you can get away with.

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Yup, as long as i get away from the computer regulation it'll help.

So far the idle has posed a problem to get around but haven't given up yet. Thanks for the tip. Will definitely look into it. Appreciated ;)

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