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Kris4b11

Looking for a DSP

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Hey everyone, I have a 2014 Honda Accord with the "premium" system. I currently run a B2 Quattro for front mids and highs, B2 Mono for bass, and also a B2 MA1000.2 on pro audio drivers. I'm still using the factory touchscreen radio for my source and have a bypass/harness that grabs the signal before factory amp and converts high level into low level input that feed the amps directly. I am looking for a DSP that accepts RCA inputs but will also de-equalize and not fade out bass at higher volume. I really like how the new Zapco DSP Z8-IV-II looks and the program/app looks great to me. I was hoping someone could give me some feedback on this model and if it was capable of de-equalizing. I am also open to any other suggestions. Thank you in advance for your help.

 

DSP.jpg

Edited by Kris4b11

Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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I’ve never ran a dsp but the Rockford 3sixtys seem good just expensive.

the audiocontrol dsps might be worth a look also.

sorry I can’t say anything about the Zappos so just throwing ideas out 

 

 


My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

I’ve never ran a dsp but the Rockford 3sixtys seem good just expensive.

the audiocontrol dsps might be worth a look also.

sorry I can’t say anything about the Zappos so just throwing ideas out 

 

 

Thank you for the reply I ran the 360.3 in my last build and had a few issues with it 1 being the 360.3 would freeze up on me resulting in me having to pull over turn the car off and starting back up, that being the only dsp I've ever used, I'm not sure if that's something that happens to any dsp or was just my luck. I am also considering the audio control dm 608 as another option. At this point I'm wondering if it might just be easier to stick a single din like a 80prs somewhere and call it a day lol.


Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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I SUGGEST you buy it,  Run it, Review It!!!  Tons of DSP's out there.  Not to sound stupid but what does de-equalizing mean? I googled it and didn't find a meaning for it. Equalize, yes. De-equalize, No.


SINGER 200 amp HO ALT

Big 5 0 AWG-RF Wiring

Optima Blue top-under hood

Kenetic HC 600 under hood

2 Kenetic HC1800 in trunk

Stinger VM

DEH-80PRS HU

RF P3 8" mid-bass in custom kick Panels

RF T265 comps x2 in custom door panels

RF T165 comps in Rear Doors

2 SQ HDS310snin a JOE X designed box

RF T400-4 ( x 2 )

RF T400-2

RF Power T1500bdcp.

All RF & SHCA OFC  0,4,8,12 wiring.

Fuse's from SMD & RF.

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3 minutes ago, bcbrassard said:

I SUGGEST you buy it,  Run it, Review It!!!  Tons of DSP's out there.  Not to sound stupid but what does de-equalizing mean? I googled it and didn't find a meaning for it. Equalize, yes. De-equalize, No.

Maybe it's not a "legit term" but I was referring to removing the factory EQing to get a "cleaner" signal. Also to remove the feature where the factory bass output signal drops as volume increases. Yes of course I could buy try it and hope and pray that it would do what i want. But I did not want to close my eyes and throw hundreds of dollars in the air that might end up out the window if you know what I mean lol.

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Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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58 minutes ago, Kris4b11 said:

Maybe it's not a "legit term" but I was referring to removing the factory EQing to get a "cleaner" signal. Also to remove the feature where the factory bass output signal drops as volume increases. Yes of course I could buy try it and hope and pray that it would do what i want. But I did not want to close my eyes and throw hundreds of dollars in the air that might end up out the window if you know what I mean lol.

Gotcha, your looking for channel suming and acu bass. Audio control comes to mind as well. I used a LC7 from audio control on 2 builds with great results. 


SINGER 200 amp HO ALT

Big 5 0 AWG-RF Wiring

Optima Blue top-under hood

Kenetic HC 600 under hood

2 Kenetic HC1800 in trunk

Stinger VM

DEH-80PRS HU

RF P3 8" mid-bass in custom kick Panels

RF T265 comps x2 in custom door panels

RF T165 comps in Rear Doors

2 SQ HDS310snin a JOE X designed box

RF T400-4 ( x 2 )

RF T400-2

RF Power T1500bdcp.

All RF & SHCA OFC  0,4,8,12 wiring.

Fuse's from SMD & RF.

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1 hour ago, Kris4b11 said:

Thank you for the reply I ran the 360.3 in my last build and had a few issues with it 1 being the 360.3 would freeze up on me resulting in me having to pull over turn the car off and starting back up, that being the only dsp I've ever used, I'm not sure if that's something that happens to any dsp or was just my luck. I am also considering the audio control dm 608 as another option. At this point I'm wondering if it might just be easier to stick a single din like a 80prs somewhere and call it a day lol.

Gotta say I love my 80 prs but I’m running active. I plan on going into a dsp eventually when I switch back to passive to add another set of speakers and judging from your experience I think I might go audiocontrol too 😂


My Daily 8th gen Civic Coupe

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/211131-honda-civic-coupe-08-2k-daily-headaches/ (Build Log)

Gear (specifics on build log)

Pioneer 80 PRS / RF P600x4 / DC 2k / Mechman 240 A / XS D3400 + D5100R / Two SA-12(D4) / RF T2 Components / Sky High Wiring (OFC)

~3.6 Cubed Net / 34 Hz Tuned / Center Port

 

 

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11 hours ago, bcbrassard said:

Gotcha, your looking for channel suming and acu bass. Audio control comes to mind as well. I used a LC7 from audio control on 2 builds with great results. 

Thank you! I think I am sold on Audio control now 


Factory double din navi unit with 30gb internal

Crescendo bc3500

DD 9512i

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