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LoudPackRacing

Sound staging issues

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I have a 2003 Civic and I can’t seem to get the sound I want from it. I am about 6’1” and I sit sort of in the middle of the car so I can hear my 6x9s more than my components. I’ve tried turning down the gain on the 6x9s to see if it would help, but all it did was make my components sound muffled. When I move my seat forward, the components would sound a lot better as opposed to my regular driving position. What can I do the fix this? I was thinking maybe kick panels?

Current setup:

Kicker Cs 6.5 components front

kicker Ks 6x9s rear

Pioneer Avh-501ex

Highs amp PPI 900.4

Exm 12” Sub

Current Sub amp Sounqubed S1-850

Edited by LoudPackRacing

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the 501 has time alignment and speaker location level adjustment. use them and see where you're at.


if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

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44 minutes ago, mothra said:

the 501 has time alignment and speaker location level adjustment. use them and see where you're at.

I actually have the time alignment mic but just never got around to using it. I guess I will try it out when I make it back home. Is there anything specific I should be looking out for,?

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Use a measuring tape for time alignment. Time is distance.


Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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9 hours ago, White Lightning said:

Use a measuring tape for time alignment. Time is distance.

Which method would be more accurate?

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6 hours ago, LoudPackRacing said:

Which method would be more accurate?

Measuring tape and tweak alignment from there. Honestly those 6x9s in the rear are going to keep making the process difficult for you though...

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20 hours ago, reedal said:

Measuring tape and tweak alignment from there. Honestly those 6x9s in the rear are going to keep making the process difficult for you though...

That’s what I was thinking to, they just overpower my components. What if I run the front stage active and ditch the 6x9s would that help? My amp has the necessary crossover to do so.

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First, turn the rear drivers off. Leave them connected, just fade forward.

Where are your tweeters in reference to your mid drivers ???

Time alignment is easier passive. You can always go active if you need to, but may harm the stage and image if driver positions are off ... this could be as simple as driver arrangement and tuning. 


Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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3 hours ago, White Lightning said:

First, turn the rear drivers off. Leave them connected, just fade forward.

Where are your tweeters in reference to your mid drivers ???

Time alignment is easier passive. You can always go active if you need to, but may harm the stage and image if driver positions are off ... this could be as simple as driver arrangement and tuning. 

Here is my drivers position,tweeter up top and mid in lower door. I measured the distance from my front speakers to my headrest. The driver door is 40” and the passenger door is 58”. 

B9863286-E14E-4A43-8386-85C78006F3F2_zps

Edited by LoudPackRacing

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