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If it is for brake dust only, change the pads and leave the rotors, if you need more stopping power get rid of your brake booster and put in a hydroboost. It is like installing a big brake kit but much cheaper.

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good info guys..audiofanaticz-what brand ceramics did you get? im going with hawk

I want to say they are Bendex or something like that, they aint nothing too special but they do their job and havent had to mess with anything for a while now, which makes me super happy!

If it is for brake dust only, change the pads and leave the rotors, if you need more stopping power get rid of your brake booster and put in a hydroboost. It is like installing a big brake kit but much cheaper.

that wont do much.. A 26 inch rim is heavy.. Very heavy compaired to the stock wheels that are used. Your rotors will heat up super fast with hydroboost or whatever which overtime will warp your rotors, wear out pads, and not to mention once the rotor is hot the car will not stop the same. Bigger brakes are made for more stopping power, and slotted rotors are to help the rotors cool down faster.

 

 

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DO NOT GET CROSS DRILL ROTORS. Every drilled rotor I have ever seen has cracked. Thats why companies have started dimpling the rotors instead. Cross driiled rotor are not for cooling, they are to vent the brake dust. the slotted vent the dust just fine. the veins in the middle are for cooling. Read the fine print before you buy.

so i should stay away from the ones that have both? and just get the slotted?

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I personally dont see you having any issue running both cross drilled and slotted. Like I said its not like your racing the vehicle where the brakes will be used in tense situations.

I had by baers for a while now, and no problems, and they aint even the best baer rotors made, just the only ones I found for my car (but they still costed a pretty penny per rotor)

Im pretty sure you said you where going to run Brembo? Which is another great company Brembo>baer.

I think the rezcalade is running brembo 6 piston calipers & cross drilled and slotted rotors too!

Check with the manufactures warrenty. See what they say, I dont think you will have a problem with cracking cross drilled and slotted rotors for daily driving.

I can see some cheap no name kit from ebay that costs you $150 bucks for 4 crossdrilled and slotted rotors malfunctioning and cracking, but not something from a higher performance company.

 

 

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Just might want to mention:

BMW M series

Mercedes Benz S/CL, C sport, all AMG

Porsche 911 and up

Ferrari ALL

Lamborgini ALL

Come with "drilled" rotors, be it metal or ceramic ROTOR material.

Dodge SRT come with slotted factory fronts.

Could be a few more, these are just off of the top of my head.

Bugatti Veyron has neither on its brakes.

The original design for drilled rotors was developed by Porsche for their 959 Dakar rally car. This was to clear debris ie. water and mud from the rotor/pad interface. Just want to throw that into the mix....... :lol:

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I didnt see this mentioned before so I thought Id add it. The problem with cross drilled is straight up heat. The brakes heat up the more they're used, this heat gets "trapped" in the drilled holes. Which obviously causes increased heat to the surface surrounding, and we all know that heat is the worst for your brakes. Slots however dont trap anything since they are more like shoots.

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Just might want to mention:

BMW M series

Mercedes Benz S/CL, C sport, all AMG

Porsche 911 and up

Ferrari ALL

Lamborgini ALL

Come with "drilled" rotors, be it metal or ceramic ROTOR material.

Dodge SRT come with slotted factory fronts.

Could be a few more, these are just off of the top of my head.

Bugatti Veyron has neither on its brakes.

The original design for drilled rotors was developed by Porsche for their 959 Dakar rally car. This was to clear debris ie. water and mud from the rotor/pad interface. Just want to throw that into the mix....... :lol:

Yes that is true, those cars have drilled rotors. But those cars weight is around 3000 pounds or so. Plus the owners of those car didn't want brake dust on their 10,000 rims....

A 5000 to 6000 pound vehicle with normal driving will need the same stopping power as a 3500 pound race car.

Now I know I read this some where I just don't remember where.

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If you build it, db's will come...

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Yeah, for a SUV I would go with the largest diameter rotor I could afford. When you "drill" a rotor, you do decrease swept surface area versus non drilled.

It is true that a drilled rotor of the same diameter will run hotter due to it's smaller surface area. Some cars have very few holes: Benz. Some have swiss cheese: Porsche. For a truck on 26's, I would personally buy slotted rotors. The biggest they make. On a 26 the rotational torque has a lot of "leverage" on the hub. Adding to the gyro effect, thus making it harder to stop. And start. :D

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