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Tips on a 150


Tidobass

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So guys I’m trying to get some advice on some things... one being how to mount mdf to my roof without being ridiculous and putting holes in it to bolt it up there, and if there are alternatives to mdf as a headliner. Two being I have a 2:1 4th order for three evl 15’s and a taramp md5k with a 150amp alt and two agm battery. I’m between 144-146 and would like to improve that number I do have sound deadening on practically everything that logically would need. Third would be what is a proper tuning atm I have it tuned real low because I like that preferably. Being 29hz but I would like to mention this is a removable port and can be altered at any time. Any input would be helpful 

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What vehicle bro. If your want meter shit, find what the vehicle likes (resonance)

also, putting wood on the roof, glue it, with PL glue. Dont drill holes unless this is a full out audio comp rig. That said, you do that, it will put you in a class, you probably dont want to be in,  like, extreme, and a 150, .......wont get you on the board. More info please? What vehicle, what comp or discipline are you shooting for comp wise..... or, do you just want a 150, just because. 

 

 

 

 

That meter, may be the death of you,.. just saying. 

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It’s a 1993 Ford Explorer xlt and the box is a c pillar build the box is a 2:1 9 cubes for the sealed and 18 for the ported for three skar evls wired to 3 ohm on a taramp md5k the two ohm version. I have it tuned to 29 atm and was thinking of changing The port to gain response at a higher tune. I don’t plan of focusing on the meter for competitions so much as a good 150 demo vehicle with hair tricks and whatnot 

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Play with the port and/or change the amp/wiring situation. You're really low on power I would gess wired to 3ohm nominal. 4th order bandpass boxes seems to gain like a MFer moving up on tuning, 29hz being unusually low from what I've seen. But seeing you like it that way I would look into getting more power into those woofers.

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