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The right amp for my subs p3d4-12


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5 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

You don't max the output. You set the gains with a tool that lets you give the subs clean power. Sealed boxs can still get down but ported are usually easier to get louder for cheaper... 

if you feed 750 rms to your subs, *you dont max there output right* ? if they can handle 1200 rms, i wanna be able to feed them a little more, so they can play at their max capacity

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Just now, Simon Landry said:

if

because i already have the wire at home, and for the reducer, i just bought nickel silver reducer..

 

Don’t use reducers unless they are cooper. If the wires are cooper then you wanna stay cooper or shave the wires at the ends to make them 4 gauge. Nickel is not that conductive. It’s worse than aluminum. It goes silver, cooper, then gold, then aluminum and nickel is way down the list. Google conductivity chart. 

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2 minutes ago, Simon Landry said:

if you feed 750 rms to your subs, *you dont max there output right* ? if they can handle 1200 rms, i wanna be able to feed them a little more, so they can play at their max capacity

Forget about maxing output my guy. Keep it simple. Those subs each have a 600 rms rating, two of them have a 1200 rms rating. Buy an amp that is within 50% power of that rating. 

 

Just get an amp that has a rated RMS power of at least 750 and at most 2k probably. All subs will play at low power, you don't need 2k for them to be loud. When you really start getting into this you will realize the box does more for you than the amp ever will... 

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Just now, Joshdashef said:

Forget about maxing output my guy. Keep it simple. Those subs each have a 600 rms rating, two of them have a 1200 rms rating. Buy an amp that is within 50% power of that rating. 

 

Just get an amp that has a rated RMS power of at least 750 and at most 2k probably. All subs will play at low power, you don't need 2k for them to be loud. When you really start getting into this you will realize the box does more for you than the amp ever will... 

he could put a Rockford t1500 bdcp on them and still be fine. That r2 1200 is perfect and then subs will last for the long run on that amp. You are forgetting that after box rise and voltage drop them subs will NEVER see 1200 rms even though the amp puts out more than 1200 rms. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Google box rise aka impedance rise and of course everyone knows about voltage drop, almost everyone. Based on what I’ve gathered, the perfect amp for him to use is the Rockford prime r2 1200. Because anything less would disappoint him and anything more he wouldn’t be able to maintain correctly thus messing up his gear. Go with the r2 1200 dude. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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17 hours ago, 121gigawatts said:

He is on a stock electrical and account box rise on top of that. So them subs will see less than 1000 rms. 

Yeah that was my tought, that why i was talking about <<maxing them>>. i want to hit the full potential of the system. ill go for the prime r2-1200.1

Will the bass hit my chest ? will it pound hard ? the louder that i listen to is my single p3-12. i was thinking about a new sub too, but since i have a brand new p3, i think the better option is to get a second one. just wodering how hard this thing gonna play.

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On 4/11/2020 at 5:12 PM, Joshdashef said:

Also with these prime amps the power/ground/remote inputs are all slanted downwards instead of straight, so keep that in mind when you are running your wire. They also make 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers at plenty of online stores to make it easier to fit 1/0 into a 4 gauge hole. Same design, different amp: 

 

Rf amps won't take guage reducers. 

They have to be specifically machined for RF terminal blocks.

 

I saw one company offer RF specific solid inputs. Think it was jimz or illcustom

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