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Second Skin Audio

subwoofer doesn't seem to hit hard higher the volume


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I'll start off with what I got and in what

-2000 toyota tundra access cab.

-DC audio lvl 5 12in. 

-Sonix enclosure Stage 3 ported for JL Audio 12W3V3 × 1.

-deaf bonce aak-4000.1d

- pioneer avh-x4800bs

 

I know I know the enclosure isn't ment for my DC lvl 5. I was inpatient as my subwoofer was a few days away from showing up on my doorstep and came across the enclosure really cheap on Facebook market so I figured I'd try it. 

Got everything button up and tuned my amp with SMD dd1 and cc1, radio volume maxes out at 40 but I set and tuned it to volume 30 ( tweeters too loud for me even past 25 )

 

So the problem I'm having is it hit good and low around volume 20 but when I'm turning it up it almost seems like it gets louder but not as much bass if that makes sense.

Here the specs on both boxes, the one I bought and the one they sell on ebay for my dc audio, I'm guessing it might have something to do with the port?

If anything i'll have to save up for custom box.

Screenshot_20200409-095500_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20200409-095719_eBay.jpg

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You are either going into clipping or your battery voltage is dropping when you get that high.  Easy way to tell is to check your voltage at the battery when you think its hitting the hardest.  If your battery voltage is getting really low you could be making both of these things happen at the same time. If its going into clipping the sub is going to start getting hot fast. 

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I forgot to add that, I do have the deaf bonce bass knob with voltage hooked up but I tuned the amp with the knob at max and the only time I see clipping is at volume 30 only for certain songs so I just play most songs around volume 25-26 ( no clipping) and I've only seen my voltage drop to 12.8v but thats just going off the knob.

Idk if it matters but I adjusted amp gain with my truck off key on so the amp was only seeing battery voltage of 12.6v

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I agree with KickerSlo. Your amp isn’t tuned correctly probably. And if you have a stock electrical system then your voltage is dropping. Get an extra battery. At least a 120ah agm battery and do the big 3 upgrade under your hood. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Enclosure issues aside for the moment, you have a Lvl5-12 on that Aak-4000.1 wired to what impedance?

My Aak 4000.1 does well at .5 but for my use its better suited to a 1.5K-2K 3" coiled sub.

Electrical 1st though

This thing would have a 5-6K on decent electrical wired down in my car...

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I was 1500 watts or so on burps wired 1 ohm with my Aak 4000.1 but after wiring lower its in the 3K clamped range burping now.

Nice lil' sub... now to feed it

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3 hours ago, BassMunky said:

Power big 3 battery and big alt

A high output alternator is always the best way to go. But I seen a dude today bumping a tezla 4K and 2 jl 4 channel amps on a stock alternator and 2 batteries, I don’t even think they were big batteries and he said nothing dims and it was bumpin hard as fugh. But an extra battery or 2 is always good to have even if you have a high output alter it that reliever more than enough for you set up because reserve is needed at times. That’s why I said just do the big 3 and get a big battery and that will fix the problem and if he has dimming problems then he can get an alternator and then he will still have that extra battery for reserve, so he will then have a pretty good electrical system and he didn’t even mean to do it and then realizes it kinda just happened like that. Lol! He could just get a 120ah agm battery and a 270 amp alternator and be done with it. But idk if he has like $800 to spend, maybe more, maybe less depending. I was thinking of the most cost efficient fix because of what’s going on around the world and a lot of people not working right now. Plus he said he would have to save up for a custom enclosure and if he can’t afford that then he can’t afford a decent high output alternator. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Check this battery out. It’s 123ah and lasts for 10 years if maintained (charged) correctly. It’s an agm. I use data safe batteries too. They are cheap and last a long time and do the job. 
 

https://www.osibatteries.com/p-917-enersys-datasafe-12hx540-fr-battery-12v-540w-non-spillable.aspx

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Idk your electrical but a 3500w sub on a 4K might be underpowering. Unless you have great electrical /w/ wiring low to get ALL that power you can.

Thats a beast sub /w/ an 8layer coil... I'd be interested to know how that 4K is wired/fed.

As far as your original question goes... your hu is maxed sub level?.. all levels set correctly?.. no BB or boost?... well then... power that sucka.

I still say a strong 5-6k wired down or an 8K @ 1 ohm might be a better choice (with electrical).

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