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Help in building a monster sub


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As the title says im looking to build a very powerful system from scratch.

I'm  hoping to get at least 6000 RMS after I'm  finish. For example a 6000rms /12000nominal continuous power and like 20000watts max. 

Something along that line..

Now bare with me i know a little but not like you guys. The magnet or motor and coil is basically the only ting that kind of confuses me. As to how would i know how much a motor could actually take and how to know what coil can actually supply that kind of constant power. 

So here what i was planning to do. Please advise me how to go about it thanks.

I was actually planning to get a basket  something like those mmatts juggernaught style.. and get a motor of similar jugg or dd 9515 motor.

Then remove the magnet plate and add another magnetand make it either quad stacked or even 5stacks of magnetic power! Then wind a coil that would fit in the basket good preferable a 4inch  8 layer coil. Then 4 spiders stacked on each other and well the other soft parts.

.

My questions are basically wouldthat extra magnet help me to achive higher rms?? What if i where to double a tripple stack magnet and make it into a 6stacked magnet?? How would that help me get more rms?

Also the coils..how can i calculate what rms the coils can actually take? 

My mainnnnn goal is to get the HIGHESTTTTTT rms possible even if i have to widen the magnetic gappp!! 

Thank you alll for taking the time to read this and help me no help us on this project together 🤗

Hopefully i could source and start august month.

Thank youuu

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Don’t take this the wrong way, but I have to be real with you and advice you. And it sounds like you don’t know much about the subject accept for some stuff you researched. This is a bad idea and a waste of money. A novice shouldn’t be building a subwoofer using different parts from other subwoofers and definitely shouldn’t be taking apart and gluing slugs together. If you decide to go against my recommendations, you will see that it was a bad idea and shit will be rubbing, slapping and clanking once rms is put to it. That’s if you don’t quit halfway through because you finally realize it’s a bad idea. There are plenty of subwoofers out there that can handle that rms and then some. Just buy one instead of wasting money. And have you ever seen a quad stack or 5 stack or 6 stack motor? No. Why? Because it’s pointless. Bigger slugs, not more slugs. We can help you find a subwoofer that can handle that rms and then some. Don’t try and make a Frankensubwoofer. It’s not gonna turn out well unless you know what you are doing and just from the things I’ve read in your post, you don’t know that much and shouldn’t be building a subwoofer. I’m not trying to be mean or rude. I’m just trying to save you some money and frustration. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Ok guys ill start off small.. those 15inch mmats juggernaut subs.. its a chromebackplate no stamps but ik they had it stamped at 2000 and 3000rms when i saw others had. This one just had a yellow sticker.. 

What recommendations you tink i can do to get more rms? Can i just add 8layers instead of 4layers? And add a tripple stack spiders? (Wanna play 40 to 50hz)  

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The amount of layers wrapped around the voice coil doesnt have much to do with how much power the coil will handle, granted typically a 8 layer will handle more but it will be less efficient compared to a 4 layer and a 4 layer will shed the heat faster.

The amount of layers will drastically change the BL curve of the woofer through the woofers movement, the 8 layer coil will have a higher BL than that of a 4 layer. Yet there are drawbacks to the 8 layer, so it really depends on the actual purpose of the woofer.
 

Adding more layers of spiders will also not handle more power, it will just make it so it needs more power to move the same as it did with less layers. While this sounds like it means its handling more power, its not because it does nothing for helping the coil handle power. So if you are not getting that coil to move properly with all those additional layers of spiders then what you get is heat being built up on the coil and not being able to cool because its not moving.

 

Even using a stronger than previously used coil in a woofer doesn't make it necessarily better because at the end of the day its going to come down to the cooling and how effective the cooling in the motor is. Pole piece vent, pole chamfers, top and pottom plate vents, basket vents, etc. 

If a woofer is having a problem keeping a coil cool at 2000 watts, its surely going to have a problem keeping a coil cooler at 3000 watts even if a better built coil is being used. 

 

Typically all your higher end woofer companies that are assembled in the usa are already using some of the best coils that can be used on their mid to higher tier woofers already, and all those coils are coming from Precision Econowind.

It really takes a lot of experimenting with this stuff to even start to gain a sense of logic how things work with each other because 1 small change will throw the characteristics of the woofer.  
 

 

 

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3 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

The amount of layers wrapped around the voice coil doesnt have much to do with how much power the coil will handle, granted typically a 8 layer will handle more but it will be less efficient compared to a 4 layer and a 4 layer will shed the heat faster.

The amount of layers will drastically change the BL curve of the woofer through the woofers movement, the 8 layer coil will have a higher BL than that of a 4 layer. Yet there are drawbacks to the 8 layer, so it really depends on the actual purpose of the woofer.
 

Adding more layers of spiders will also not handle more power, it will just make it so it needs more power to move the same as it did with less layers. While this sounds like it means its handling more power, its not because it does nothing for helping the coil handle power. So if you are not getting that coil to move properly with all those additional layers of spiders then what you get is heat being built up on the coil and not being able to cool because its not moving.

 

Even using a stronger than previously used coil in a woofer doesn't make it necessarily better because at the end of the day its going to come down to the cooling and how effective the cooling in the motor is. Pole piece vent, pole chamfers, top and pottom plate vents, basket vents, etc. 

If a woofer is having a problem keeping a coil cool at 2000 watts, its surely going to have a problem keeping a coil cooler at 3000 watts even if a better built coil is being used. 

 

Typically all your higher end woofer companies that are assembled in the usa are already using some of the best coils that can be used on their mid to higher tier woofers already, and all those coils are coming from Precision Econowind.

It really takes a lot of experimenting with this stuff to even start to gain a sense of logic how things work with each other because 1 small change will throw the characteristics of the woofer.  
 

Oh i honestly  thought 8 layers could  handle  more rms and even cool  faster..

Well to  seem to know a lot 

What if i redo the  coil  with same 4 layers and same 4 inch but with a thicker  gauge wire? Whats the thickest guage possible? 

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16 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

Don’t take this the wrong way, but I have to be real with you and advice you. And it sounds like you don’t know much about the subject accept for some stuff you researched. This is a bad idea and a waste of money. A novice shouldn’t be building a subwoofer using different parts from other subwoofers and definitely shouldn’t be taking apart and gluing slugs together. If you decide to go against my recommendations, you will see that it was a bad idea and shit will be rubbing, slapping and clanking once rms is put to it. That’s if you don’t quit halfway through because you finally realize it’s a bad idea. There are plenty of subwoofers out there that can handle that rms and then some. Just buy one instead of wasting money. And have you ever seen a quad stack or 5 stack or 6 stack motor? No. Why? Because it’s pointless. Bigger slugs, not more slugs. We can help you find a subwoofer that can handle that rms and then some. Don’t try and make a Frankensubwoofer. It’s not gonna turn out well unless you know what you are doing and just from the things I’ve read in your post, you don’t know that much and shouldn’t be building a subwoofer. I’m not trying to be mean or rude. I’m just trying to save you some money and frustration. 

While you are correct, i had to add this because i love this woofer and cant wait to use one.

Screenshot_20200625-111239_Chrome.jpg

Sitting around waiting to be installed:

  4 FI X 10

 270 CES alt

D3400/73ah lithium

 AA 3800.1

  (2) AA 75.4

     

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2 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:

Just here to ask... why? Are you competing? single sub division or something?  Your numbers, your looking for, just seem........ weird. Just saying. No hate, just asking. 

Yes i do plan on competing but not with this build im making because theres some serious builds in my country. Over 12000rms builds and stuff😂😂how dey do it idk😂😂.

I just wanna build this sub to mainly keepup with my 2 10inch mids in boxes .when i playing thevoice completely covers my bass and its like only voice😂😂😂 i had a 12inch 3000watts last....so i just wanna build on since money is low asff. And at d same time try and achieve he highest power i can achieve. 

 

I just want to know how to know what rms a coil can handle....ill do the rest... thsts all.. when im building i dont wanna get a coil and it burns with 2000watts hahhahah  thanks all

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Voice coils are not rated in wattage, even the manufacture of the best coils has no real idea on wattage.

You can take the same coil and use it in 2 completely different woofers. One woofer it may handle 3000 watts rms, while the other woofer it will handle 6000 watts rms. 

A lot of it is in the cooling of the motor.

Trying to keep up with 2 10 inch mids shouldn't be hard at all with decent woofer. 
Im going to go out on the limb and say your 3000 watt 12 inch sub you had was either not a legit 3000 watt sub with inflated bogus ratings, or you had an amp that doesnt make any decent power to push the sub cleanly to its potential.

 

 

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