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Recommendation for battery terminal wiring


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There has to be a better way to do what I'm doing so let me explain what my setup is right now.

 

2011 Cadillac Escalade(new to me). I just did some work on it to delete DoD(AFM), installed a 400a mechman alternator. Swapped the battery to an XSPower D4700 and spun it around so terminals are facing the engine. I have some KNU terminals on it, and KNU 0awg wire. I replaced the alternator power and ran a dedicated ground. Replaced the factory grounds with all 0awg w/ ring terminals.   The area to connect the wiring is tight right now, also if I don't replace the starter cable I need to keep the factory terminal in play on the positive side.  I don't even have my car audio wiring started yet and its already getting tight.  Better recommendations for terminals here?

 

Will also be adding a second battery on the driver's side, same battery unless someone knows of a size battery that will fit this tray where the posts aren't below the top most surface of the battery.

 

Thanks

 

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  • jbeez changed the title to Recommendation for battery terminal wiring

Would something like this help? 

 

https://skyhighcaraudio.com/copy-of-sky-high-car-audio-6-flat-battery-terminals/

 

These are 8 spot, so to kind of big, but they make 4 spot and 6 spot as well. 

After installing the second battery, you could also run wiring from that battery as well, getting up some space

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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4 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

These won't work because the D4700 battery terminals are sunken down below the top of the battery (unlike a D3400 or D3100 for example with a flat top).
I swear there was someone that made a terminal to fit these styles of batteries but I can't find anything so they may no longer be made since people are starting to move away from agm.

Your best bet would be to limit the amount of wiring to just the oem wiring and then run an additional positive and negative power wire to a distribution block mounted under the hood where you can then connect your additional upgraded wiring from your alt along with your main power wires going to the rear when you do ad a system. Steve makes a bunch of great Distro blocks that would work great for this with plenty of color options and a lifetime warranty! https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-distribution-blocks.html

Basically the same truck, this is exactly how I would do it!

 

 

 

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@audiofanaticzYou mentioned the D3400/3100. Do those fit the same in these battery trays? Because I'm getting a second battery for the other tray, and I could probably get one of those and swap it in the factory spot and move this one over to the other tray.

 

The other battery on the driver side is where I plan to run my car audio power wire. I still need to figure out what else I want to connect that battery to, like where it will be connected to the main battery, either direct run or just from the alternator wiring idk, probably a direct run because it will bug me AND the alternator.  This isn't going to be a giant walled build, its going to be like 4000-7000w max. Class D for highs and either 1 zapco 3k for the subs or I'll add a second one and strap them if one isn't enough for me. I already have one so going that route.

 

Thanks,

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On 8/19/2022 at 6:54 AM, jbeez said:

@audiofanaticzYou mentioned the D3400/3100. Do those fit the same in these battery trays? Because I'm getting a second battery for the other tray, and I could probably get one of those and swap it in the factory spot and move this one over to the other tray.

 

Most likely not, your factory size is a group 47 so I'm sure the additional spot for a 2nd battery is also a group 47. 
I know the previous generation body style was a group 34 for both locations but since they changed the current size chances are high that the 2nd spot is a 47 too, all you got to do is measure the 2nd battery try and compare those measurements to your main battery tray and you'll have your answer. 

I mentioned the 34 and 31 because people can't look at your picture to realize that the group 47 battery has recessed terminals that sit below the top of the battery case so why they are suggesting bars for batteries that have a flat top like a 34/31 is beyond me because they wont work unless you want them hanging out away from the battery looking like a hack did the install is beyond me.

Like I said, do what Steve did for his sons Yukon XL in the video I posted, or like Steve did on his Escalade with the multi fuseblock and a distribution block, these 2 vehicles are virtually identical to yours under the hood right down to the same battery and battery location. This is going to be the best way to do it for your vehicle without having a bunch of ring terminals being piled on top of each other, so I guess I really don't understand why you're trying to make this harder than it is. 

20 hours ago, killerc998 said:

No, unless you want the battery terminals sticking out away from the battery case to not be used as they are intended for..

 

 

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On 8/20/2022 at 9:00 AM, audiofanaticz said:

Most likely not, your factory size is a group 47 so I'm sure the additional spot for a 2nd battery is also a group 47. 
I know the previous generation body style was a group 34 for both locations but since they changed the current size chances are high that the 2nd spot is a 47 too, all you got to do is measure the 2nd battery try and compare those measurements to your main battery tray and you'll have your answer. 

I mentioned the 34 and 31 because people can't look at your picture to realize that the group 47 battery has recessed terminals that sit below the top of the battery case so why they are suggesting bars for batteries that have a flat top like a 34/31 is beyond me because they wont work unless you want them hanging out away from the battery looking like a hack did the install is beyond me.

Like I said, do what Steve did for his sons Yukon XL in the video I posted, or like Steve did on his Escalade with the multi fuseblock and a distribution block, these 2 vehicles are virtually identical to yours under the hood right down to the same battery and battery location. This is going to be the best way to do it for your vehicle without having a bunch of ring terminals being piled on top of each other, so I guess I really don't understand why you're trying to make this harder than it is. 

No, unless you want the battery terminals sticking out away from the battery case to not be used as they are intended for..

Appreciate the info, the video is super helpful! I was just trying to get a few options. Battery info also super helpful, I'm new to the tahoe platform i've only had fords so a little learning curve for me on the little things like that.

 

Thanks again, I think I'm good to start figuring out next steps

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On 8/16/2022 at 10:46 PM, audiofanaticz said:

These won't work because the D4700 battery terminals are sunken down below the top of the battery (unlike a D3400 or D3100 for example with a flat top).
I swear there was someone that made a terminal to fit these styles of batteries but I can't find anything so they may no longer be made since people are starting to move away from agm.

Your best bet would be to limit the amount of wiring to just the oem wiring and then run an additional positive and negative power wire to a distribution block mounted under the hood where you can then connect your additional upgraded wiring from your alt along with your main power wires going to the rear when you do ad a system. Steve makes a bunch of great Distro blocks that would work great for this with plenty of color options and a lifetime warranty! https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-distribution-blocks.html

 

@audiofanaticz is right on regarding the distribution block and that probably is your best option. I had the same problem in my 1999 Honda Civic some years ago and that was the *only* way I was able to solve it. The Civic engine compartment is small and very tightly packed. The electrical harness includes *everything* in the engine compartment from the ECU bundles to the fuel injectors to the power buss and the starter cable (which is 4 AWG believe it or not!) . Literally "no wiggle room". I found a small area to put a Streetwires fuse/distrbution block near the left wiper motor (which is behind and above the firewall) and that solved the problem. To be fair, a Civic alternator only puts out about 90 amps and my system at that time (two MC140's and one D200II from Soundstream) was only 480 watts so really no need to go crazy with 2/0 AWG cable. At least you have an Escalade which gives you more room - just a question of how much surgery and relocation of "stuff" under the hood you are willing to tolerate.

If you use any after market battery terminal adapters (KnuKoncepts makes some of the best) be extremely careful to check the height of the positive terminal to make sure it does not touch the hood when you close it! The clearance in my 2002 civic *with* the add-on terminal is *only* 3/8" (I used Silly Putty to verify this). Since I am on here now I will check out Sky High's products and especially the SMD hardware. All of the installs I have seen are just off the charts with these products and I cannot wait to start trying them out. Since you have the Escalade at least *that* should not be too much of a problem. Be careful and good luck!

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