TonyD'Amore Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/122171-measuring-power-by-clamping/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geardropper Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 ty Red light rev ya engines..light goes green u take off, petal to the floor.I take it slow but some how seem to catch up with u at he next red.So u think u can do it again.light goes green you stall..i put my foot down just to show u what fast really looks like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3dreaper Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 @ISO Thank you for that info! I had forgotten about this section of the forums and the Mods kept deleting my post haha Those of you who are risking your relationships need to grow up. Bass can't make you sandwhiches. You clearly haven't tossed lunch meat, cheese, and bread in your port yet. Makes a hell of a bologna sandwich salad. Jiggles the balls pretty good too. If i ain't learning, I ain't living. Steve blocked me on YT... I think i irritated him a few years ago.... LOL sorry man I don't have any serious builds goin on... currently i have an Interfire IF-2400b pushing 2 Alphasonic PSW610J's... I'm broke and i don't want my son deaf before he's 2 haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvcincy Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 This belongs to the thread that the post above goes too. I don't have much time to answer abunch of questions tonight but I left out a real important detail about setting your gains with a bass knob. Someone correct me about amplifier companies if I'm wrong about RF being the only company useing a dash mounted bass boost instead of a gain control knob. I have an old PPI PC21400 and they use a bass boost knob module. You can adjust the boosted frequency at 4 different levels. 30, 36, 44, and 60Hz. I just bought a Crescendo BC2000d and it's remote knob is for gain I believe. Good post by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPLCIVICSI Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 What is the formula for box rise? 2002 Civic Si Soundstream VR 931-NBT DLS UP36i components DC power 320 amp alt XS Power - (3) D3400s, (2) D3100s 2 DD 9515's all carbon with superchargers Audio Control MVC processor Arc Audio KS300.2 Sub amps - considering 2 T2500bdcp's for MECA M3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HatersGonnaHate Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 i just copied this from another post... hope this helps: Correct you need an AC clamp meter and a dmm. You will need to measure the AC voltage output going to each of your subs or if they're bridged just the wires going into the amp. Once you get the AC voltage you will need to find the AC current. You do this by clamping the negative wire going to the set of speakers. I'll give you an example. You clamp your wire and get 38.6 amps of current You probe the + & - wires and get 61.7 volts Next you would take the 61.7 volts and multiply the 38.6 by it to find your MAX power which would be 2381 watts Next to find out your impedence rise you would divide the voltage 61.7 by the amperage 38.6 which would be 1.59 ohms So if you were to have a nominal or starting resistance of .5 ohms you would have a rise of 1.09 ohms, but would have an overall reactive load of 1.59 ohms Copied from here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/76851-calculating-box-rise/ My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight looks like tony montana sneezed in your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyD'Amore Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Here is the proper way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Here is the proper way. looks like the 3rd method was off by 4 watts from the amp dyno. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillistonAudioLabs Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 The important points addressed by Tony's video above are 1) Importance of a True RMS meter 2) When using reactive loads (ie speakers), phasing must be accounted for (and I'm not talking about getting your wires connected properly) and 3) Difference between resistive loads (AD-1) and reactive loads on an amplifier See my videos on YouTube http://www.willistonaudio.com Many tests and demos of OLD and NEW SCHOOL car audio gear! See cool pics on Instagram @oldschoolstereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoove Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Bring on the AD-1 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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