honda Posted July 17, 2008 Author Report Posted July 17, 2008 Wait a minute, I missed the part where you said it was an 06. I thought you said it was a 2000 lol.If you want, I will look up what alternator that uses at work and give you some specs on it. Oh man! It would be great to know the real specs and capability of my electrical right now. So far all i know that my alt is made by denso. I called Honda and none of them knew how much amperage it produces. I have a 2006 Accord with the 3.0 V6 engine by the way. I really appreciate the help. Quote My Soundz: '06 ACCoRD Diamond Hex (front)........................Diamond 2ch x 100Wrms............................Ought-guage Power wire and BIG THREE Diamond 6x9 (rear deck).................AudioQue AQ1200d @ 1ohm........................MTX re-Q (sound processor for stock HU) CDT tweets (rear doors)..................Alpine 4ch x 45Wrms.................................Clarion 7band EQ TWO Diamond D6 12" DVC 4ohm Coming soon upgrades: Batts dynamat trunk kit
andym85 Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 it doesnt matter where the current wire is going...just add to it, and fuse it... if i can do it to a 92accord, and he can do it to a 2000, then there is no reason that it cant be done to a 96 Quote i likes me some audio stuff...
jonathancullen89 Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 (edited) I literally just did the big 3 on my 2000 4cl accord. It was a real breeze if you ask me.Your alternator is a Delphi 130amp alternator. That alternator that Honda used is junk. They are always being replaced at work compared to the nippondenso 80amp alts that the 4cl uses. I know that iraggi makes some alternators for your car. I just bought one for my car and it works like a dream. The big 3 is relatively easy and I know what you mean by all the branching wires, But you do not have to follow them with the new upgraded wire. Just run the wire the shortest way possible and out of the way of the accessories and headers/throttle body. This is my big 3 plus upgraded fuse box wires... you have a garden hose running through your engine bay clean install man, in my 90 celica the alternator wire also branched out like you said. it is simple, like everyone has said keep your existing alternator wire and add a new one. idk why they said they couldnt do it, maybe they are lazy or have no idea what they are doing. caps are a waste of money, battery is a better way to go if you dont want to spend the money on an alternator. Edited July 17, 2008 by jonathancullen89 Quote 1992 cavalier build 1992 blazer s10 kenwood cd hifonics hfi2500d 6 soon to be 12 12" hifonics hfi12d4's shit ton-o-wire Blurred Vision Audio Team SMD feedback/refs. clicky!-
McLovin Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 All you have to do is keep all ur existing wiring. Just add a power cable from batt to alt and add the grounds. The more wire the better because current follows the path of least resistance. Since there is more wire for the curent to go thru the more current you will have and less dimming you will have. If I were you I wouldnt go to those shops again. they obviously dont have any idea. Just get all ur info from here, cause these guys know exactly what they are doing. Quote Credo Quia Absurdum
dmanson Posted July 17, 2008 Report Posted July 17, 2008 All you have to do is keep all ur existing wiring. Just add a power cable from batt to alt and add the grounds. The more wire the better because current follows the path of least resistance. Since there is more wire for the curent to go thru the more current you will have and less dimming you will have. If I were you I wouldnt go to those shops again. they obviously dont have any idea. Just get all ur info from here, cause these guys know exactly what they are doing. and i guarantee they thought about removing your stock alt to battery wire. man you can do that yourself potna. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
honda Posted July 18, 2008 Author Report Posted July 18, 2008 (edited) and i guarantee they thought about removing your stock alt to battery wire. man you can do that yourself potna. Ok I just bought my cable and supply to do the big three myself. 1/0 is 6bucks a foot and ring terminals are 4 bucks each man. over all juz a lil under $100 for everything including the wire, fuse holder, 200amp fuse, and ring terminals. But i got a few question still: -Which terminal on the alt do i hook-up to the batter(positive), terminal A or termina B according to my pics? -Also i just want to clarify my understanding from you guys, Do i just need to add and a wire on top of this to the battery and leave the stock wire? cuz the stock wire goes to different places before they go to the battery. -Which is better to do, to run from battery(negative) to engine block or run from chassis to engine block....or both? i already know i have to run to the chassy, just need to know the best way to connect the engine block. -also what advantages would it be to run additional wires to the fusebox under the hood (kinda like what ramennoodle did)? here are the pics.......My car is a 2006 Honda ACCord with the 3.0 V6 engine. Edited July 18, 2008 by honda Quote My Soundz: '06 ACCoRD Diamond Hex (front)........................Diamond 2ch x 100Wrms............................Ought-guage Power wire and BIG THREE Diamond 6x9 (rear deck).................AudioQue AQ1200d @ 1ohm........................MTX re-Q (sound processor for stock HU) CDT tweets (rear doors)..................Alpine 4ch x 45Wrms.................................Clarion 7band EQ TWO Diamond D6 12" DVC 4ohm Coming soon upgrades: Batts dynamat trunk kit
jmsonoma03 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 looks like the A terminal pull the cover off it should be a nut and bolt setup the other should be a molex plug with smaller wires. dont worry about the factory wires just add on your new power wire from the alt to the batt using a fuse you can add a new wire from the fuse panel to the battery to help with the dimming .test the A terminal wire with a dmm to make sure its 12v.good luck Quote
jmsonoma03 Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 I literally just did the big 3 on my 2000 4cl accord. It was a real breeze if you ask me.Your alternator is a Delphi 130amp alternator. That alternator that Honda used is junk. They are always being replaced at work compared to the nippondenso 80amp alts that the 4cl uses. I know that iraggi makes some alternators for your car. I just bought one for my car and it works like a dream. The big 3 is relatively easy and I know what you mean by all the branching wires, But you do not have to follow them with the new upgraded wire. Just run the wire the shortest way possible and out of the way of the accessories and headers/throttle body. This is my big 3 plus upgraded fuse box wires... so whats up with the 2 wires going into the fuse box it looks like one from the alt and one from the batt. Quote
RamenNoodles Posted July 18, 2008 Report Posted July 18, 2008 The A spot is where you want to add your wires on to. The B spot that you labeled looks like the alternator socket. That has nothing to do with the big3 so dont worry about that. As far as where the stock wiring runs, fuck it. Its just Honda's was of cleaning up the engine bay, they just weave it around the engine in order to make it looks a little neater and such. Just do the straited and more direct path that is or course out of harms way as well. You need to upgrade the alternator + to the battery + Battery - to the frame Battery - to the engine block And if you want you can do the fuse blocks which are battery + to fuse left and alternator to fuse right (double check your layout to make sure left and right fuse block spots) And when you put the ring terminals on, take off about 1/2" of the cable sleeve to expose the bare wire. Take the ring terminal and dont twist it up, just pinch it together at the tip and slide it in the bottom end of the terminal. Take a hammer and hit the middle of the ring terminal on the front where the two ends meet. This will push them into the wire. Then turn the terminal on its side and hit it from the side so that one of the sides will go underneath the other making a nice tight hug around the wire. I really advise this part so that the terminals do not slip out.... Heat up the end of the ring terminal with a blow torch (a hand held one from HD or Lowes will work, its what i used) and then heat up that fucker for about a minute making sure its hot as hell. Then quickly, take about a 2 ft piece of solder and push it into the front of the terminal where the wire is. This will melt the solder and let it drip down into the wire forming a nice bond between the wire and terminal so that it will NOT fall out when driving. Check out Meade's thread about how to do it with pictures. Good luck man, its really easier than you think its going to be. Quote Diablo Audio Technologies Fi Car Audio Ascendant Audio
honda Posted July 18, 2008 Author Report Posted July 18, 2008 (edited) The A spot is where you want to add your wires on to. The B spot that you labeled looks like the alternator socket. That has nothing to do with the big3 so dont worry about that.As far as where the stock wiring runs, fuck it. Its just Honda's was of cleaning up the engine bay, they just weave it around the engine in order to make it looks a little neater and such. Just do the straited and more direct path that is or course out of harms way as well. You need to upgrade the alternator + to the battery + Battery - to the frame Battery - to the engine block And if you want you can do the fuse blocks which are battery + to fuse left and alternator to fuse right (double check your layout to make sure left and right fuse block spots) And when you put the ring terminals on, take off about 1/2" of the cable sleeve to expose the bare wire. Take the ring terminal and dont twist it up, just pinch it together at the tip and slide it in the bottom end of the terminal. Take a hammer and hit the middle of the ring terminal on the front where the two ends meet. This will push them into the wire. Then turn the terminal on its side and hit it from the side so that one of the sides will go underneath the other making a nice tight hug around the wire. I really advise this part so that the terminals do not slip out.... Heat up the end of the ring terminal with a blow torch (a hand held one from HD or Lowes will work, its what i used) and then heat up that fucker for about a minute making sure its hot as hell. Then quickly, take about a 2 ft piece of solder and push it into the front of the terminal where the wire is. This will melt the solder and let it drip down into the wire forming a nice bond between the wire and terminal so that it will NOT fall out when driving. Check out Meade's thread about how to do it with pictures. Good luck man, its really easier than you think its going to be. My friend and I thought it was the terminal A on the alternator but i wanted to make sure so I asked here. Thanks a lot guys, especially ramennoodles, now I can do this big three. I am glad i did not fall in for that "caps or no caps" by the car audio shops they were trying to give me. I got all the materials for this upgrade now and hopefully i can do this this saturday if i have time, gots lots of homework and got 1st term summer semester finals. But i really have a feeling I'll end up messing with my car first before I open my books...lol I'll post some pics and show you guys how this upgrade came up and so you guys can point out if i messed up on something. hey ramennoodles or anybody out there, I got another question.....What is the reason for upgrading the wires going to the fusebox in the enginbe bay? Mine looks like they got 8awg comin in to them, is that sufficient or should i upgrade them also? again thanks 4 everything bros.....you guys have been a big help. I'll try to help out others too when i become more of an expert on this to return the favor. you guys can check out my ride here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=25463 Edited July 18, 2008 by honda Quote My Soundz: '06 ACCoRD Diamond Hex (front)........................Diamond 2ch x 100Wrms............................Ought-guage Power wire and BIG THREE Diamond 6x9 (rear deck).................AudioQue AQ1200d @ 1ohm........................MTX re-Q (sound processor for stock HU) CDT tweets (rear doors)..................Alpine 4ch x 45Wrms.................................Clarion 7band EQ TWO Diamond D6 12" DVC 4ohm Coming soon upgrades: Batts dynamat trunk kit
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