wL<3bass Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 I agree. I'd do Tnuts as well- but to each his own and if he wants to go through a bit extra effort for the look he desires so be it. we've told him the alternative its up to him to know what he is getting into and decide himself.-Drew They way he is doing it is "ghetto" but hey it's his install and the look he wants so by all means go right ahead with your idea.... Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aseanj52 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 I will try it my way. If it don't work i will give in and get the T-nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aseanj52 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 I just don't see the big deal with trying it my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 what you could also do to do it your way is to counter sink each hole just a little, and put a nut over the bolt so it sits flush inside of it. then that will hold the bolts in place so you can slide the sub right over them and not worry about the bolts falling out. and the sub will still sit flat on the wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 I've used T-nuts before and loved them. You can pick up the mounting kit from Parts Expess cheap too. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-778 The only problem I see with the other way is holding the bolt still while you tighten from the front. Even if you press it in tight I don't see the wood holding it good enough and it'll just spin. In the very least I would use some glue/epoxy to lock them into place so they can be tightened adequately. Worst case scenario is you do get the nut tightened from the front but then the bolt spins trying to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 dont do it your way if the carrage bolt strips out when you go to take them out that is when the problem will come in did it with my solox's just go buy some t nuts from ace hardware, or home depot Quote TEAM PURE Team South http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195192-8-pure-audio-15-flat-wall-chevy-crewcab-dually-vid-page-4-s/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitch12 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 The only problem I see with the other way is holding the bolt still while you tighten from the front. Even if you press it in tight I don't see the wood holding it good enough and it'll just spin. In the very least I would use some glue/epoxy to lock them into place so they can be tightened adequately. Worst case scenario is you do get the nut tightened from the front but then the bolt spins trying to remove it. If that happens he could just take a Pliers or vise grip (sp?) and put it on the end of the bolt to hold it while he tightens/loosens the nut. Couldn't he? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauleqer Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 If that happens he could just take a Pliers or vise grip (sp?) and put it on the end of the bolt to hold it while he tightens/loosens the nut. Couldn't he? then he will damage the threads and the nut wont come off any ways. i say stick with the good ol original t-nuts....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aseanj52 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 (edited) Yeah T-nuts would be the easier thing to do, But i want to try something different. I haven't seen many people using bolts the way i want to. But if i can't get the regular old bolts to work, i will go pick some up and call my bolts a fail. And btw onlyinajeep, those solo X's hurt the side of my head at Scrapin, It was sweet. Edited July 29, 2008 by aseanj52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest aseanj52 Posted July 29, 2008 Report Share Posted July 29, 2008 Ok, so after talking to people on here. And going up and talking to my boy at a audio shop. I said fuck it and bought something. . . . I want it to be right and not break. . . So I will do it better/easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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