JayPhoenix Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Hey, I am revamping my System this winter and plan to run multiple batteries (1 OptimaRed Top for Starting, and 2-3 OptimaYellow tops for tunes). I just need some help in finding what I need to keep the audioside from draining the starting battery. I know I need an isolator kit but would like some direction as to what to use and how to wire it up properly. Thanks. Quote "The Only Way IS, All The Way!" 1997 F150 - 130AMP alternator, Optima Red Top, Streetwires 0/-1G Power and Ground, 8Farad Soundstream Capacitor, Kenwood CD/Mp3 Player, Kenwood 6x8's Front and Rear 2 RE Audio SX 12" Woofers w/3.75ft3 tuned at 33Hz, US Amps XT-4000D Amp 2000 F150 - 130Amp Alternator, Kenwood CD/Mp3 Player, JBL 6.5" Components Front, JBL 6x9 Rear, Rockford 10" P1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARTY012803 Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Hey, I am revamping my System this winter and plan to run multiple batteries (1 OptimaRed Top for Starting, and 2-3 OptimaYellow tops for tunes). I just need some help in finding what I need to keep the audioside from draining the starting battery. I know I need an isolator kit but would like some direction as to what to use and how to wire it up properly. Thanks. I have the stinger SR200 they have direction on how to hook it up on there website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcary Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 ....my eyes hurt! You only need an isolator if you plan to run the stereo with the engine off for long periods. Quote PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Even with an isolator you will still have battery drain from the deck unless you separate that from the starting battery also. Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 unless you plan on running your system for long periods of time with the car off, i dont recommend those things.....besides,when you kill your batteries and then start your truck with the good battery, the alt kicks in and has to charge those dead batts. That is bad news for an alternator....it may charge them back up but its bad for it and will shorten its life span if not kill it depending on how far down you took those batteries. Now on the other hand if your not planning on playing music for extended periods with the car off.......then its a total waste, just run them all in paralell. thats what i would do. Quote All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayPhoenix Posted September 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 (edited) Thanks for everyones input, gave me something to chew on anyways was thinking of wiring it like my Big Rig just wasn't sure whether the Isolator was gonna be all it was "suppose" to be or just a fancy do-dad lol. Cool thanks people! Edited September 7, 2008 by JayPhoenix Quote "The Only Way IS, All The Way!" 1997 F150 - 130AMP alternator, Optima Red Top, Streetwires 0/-1G Power and Ground, 8Farad Soundstream Capacitor, Kenwood CD/Mp3 Player, Kenwood 6x8's Front and Rear 2 RE Audio SX 12" Woofers w/3.75ft3 tuned at 33Hz, US Amps XT-4000D Amp 2000 F150 - 130Amp Alternator, Kenwood CD/Mp3 Player, JBL 6.5" Components Front, JBL 6x9 Rear, Rockford 10" P1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Thanks for everyones input, gave me something to chew on anyways was thinking of wiring it like my Big Rig just wasn't sure whether the Isolator was gonna be all it was "suppose" to be or just a fancy do-dad lol. Cool thanks people! Your text choice makes my eyes bleed... Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Isolators are actually bad because they use power and drain your bats. You lose like .2 volts using an isolator... ONLY install if you intend to run your system with car off which is what they are designed for... Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescorpio1 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 red text no bueno!!!! Quote Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it. Team built from here on out!!!! BIG things to come......... Missing link is the shite!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassprodigy Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 when i added my yellow top to the back for my amps, a dip shit i work with suggested an isolator, but my manager (who used to do alot of sql competing) told me that i was going to have nothing but trouble with an isolator.... so i just ran my power wire from the front battery to the back, then grounded my back battery, and havent had a problem since.......... Quote 2003 Toyota Sequoia Pioneer 4100dvd Memphis PR6.5 3ways in all four doors Memphis PR 15s (4) Memphis PR 1.1000 (2) Memphis PR 4.50 (1) Optima Yellowtop (2) Viper 5901 8000k H.I.D. kit 15% tint (2layers) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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