n8ball2013 Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 thats what rf did with mine replaced the whole board supposedly. I never opened them to check but thats what they told me. Even when i moved the smoker it would still do it. Had no idea why just that one was a lemon. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosin Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Are you sure its not a whole new pc board? I know tons of people that fried kicker amps, and like i said they just take the old board out and put a new one in it. less time consuming, and cheaper. If it happened 3 times, i dont think its the amp. Its maybe how it is setup, if your blowing capacitors (i think c17-1mf is a capacitor), there maybe a problem with your amps power supply. otherwise you might have some bunk RCA cords ran in your car, maybe they are messing up somehow. What about your sub coils? Do they read fine and rest at one ohm, and not jump around when you read them on a dmm. If your coils dont hold a constant number your sub could be frying the amp. I just had that happen recently. Id really try some new rca cords since they are cheap and not hard to replace. Maybe find a better ground or make sure you have the best conductivity possible. Listen to this guy! ^^^ Seems like a damn expert!! Quote Derp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Listen to this guy! ^^^ Seems like a damn expert!! sig worthy! Lol I just took lots of amps apart, and made simple repairs on many amps in the past. Sometimes I learn the hard way (which seems to be the way to make you broke) but theres just small things that you may never think off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosin Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 sig worthy!Lol I just took lots of amps apart, and made simple repairs on many amps in the past. Sometimes I learn the hard way (which seems to be the way to make you broke) but theres just small things that you may never think off. My first sig worthy reply! :yahoo: : It just takes lots of time and patience to repair your own amps doesn't it? (And skill) Quote Derp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Are you sure its not a whole new pc board? I know tons of people that fried kicker amps, and like i said they just take the old board out and put a new one in it. less time consuming, and cheaper. If it happened 3 times, i dont think its the amp. Its maybe how it is setup, if your blowing capacitors (i think c17-1mf is a capacitor), there maybe a problem with your amps power supply. otherwise you might have some bunk RCA cords ran in your car, maybe they are messing up somehow. What about your sub coils? Do they read fine and rest at one ohm, and not jump around when you read them on a dmm. If your coils dont hold a constant number your sub could be frying the amp. I just had that happen recently. Id really try some new rca cords since they are cheap and not hard to replace. Maybe find a better ground or make sure you have the best conductivity possible. not sure it's a whole new pc board, the only thing i have documented from kicker on me is that they replace the c17-1mf, which is the capacitor, you're right) it could be the amp though... like i said that's all they've replaced, and my amp went out a third time, so i'm not sure what the problem is this time. that's why i want a different amp and if the same thing goes wrong, then i'll know it's something i'm doing on the rca's, i'm running the kicker rca's, kinda expensive but they're nice, and i hooked my rca's into another car right next to mine, and still nothing as far as checking the ohm load on the sub, haven't done that, but i ran it on my buddies zx750 for a couple of days and no problems with anything... i'm out of ideas on what it could be, that's why i want to exchange for a different zx1500 another thing, i've put my sub into the box twice, first time drilled pilot holes, screws went in good, second time it seemed that probably 6/8 of the screws went in crooked... i'm afraid to pull the sub out then drill it in and have the wood fall apart on me and have them not grip... i'm using 3/4" mdf and know it splits sometimes... any ideas on how to fix this??? i have more slabs of mdf but don't want my sub up on a pyramid haaha Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Double baffle!!!! Drill new holes Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Double baffle!!!! Drill new holes haha and what am i gonna tune this beast to??? haha but if i drill new holes, that three different screw spots, in the same spot haha, it'll all be broken uppp Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricM9104 Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Is your charging system up to par? Quote 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles Stock H/U and mids/highs Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm Random 2.5^3' dual ported box NVX LOC Stinger wiring throughout 1977 Chevy SWB Cammed 350 Dual exhaust Cheap Wish stereo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Is your charging system up to par? yes sirrr h/o alt, and a decent battery, like 14-14.5 volts Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted September 26, 2008 Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 not sure it's a whole new pc board, the only thing i have documented from kicker on me is that they replace the c17-1mf, which is the capacitor, you're right) on the rca's, i'm running the kicker rca's, kinda expensive but they're nice, and i hooked my rca's into another car right next to mine, and still nothing as far as checking the ohm load on the sub, haven't done that, but i ran it on my buddies zx750 for a couple of days and no problems with anything... i'm out of ideas on what it could be, that's why i want to exchange for a different zx1500 Take this as you will. Ive had multiple problems once I put power to my subs. First problem was my custom rca's that I had custom made by magalowmanic. The solder job on them was crap and the center pin wire was grounding out, causing my amp to protect. Resoldered rca ends and problem solved, but then got a hook up on some old school Stinger King series rca cords. Triple shielded, really nice cables. Then after a week of bumping I had a coil on my subs unwind. Everytime the sub hit I heard a ting type sound. When I checked my voice coils on a dmm (digital multimeter the coils where reading from 0.9 to 2.6 (each coil should read a constant 1.4 ohms) This started to kick my amp into protect again. So with that being said DD will have my speaker today/friday for a recone. Sometimes just a rubbing coil maybe enough to fry a amp. I think you said your coils are dual 4 ohms. So if you got one coil jumping around on the ohms when you check it on a dmm, this could be your problem. You said you bought the amp from an autorized dealer which is good because you got that warranty but paying shipping back and forth does blow goats. Im affraid that kicker may get fed up with seeing the amp so many times and may charge you. Maybe they just replaced the capacitor, but I dont know for sure. Dont know if you ever had the cover off to read the serial number on the pc board but if that number changes that means they are giving you a new board in the same heatsink. Double baffle!!!! Drill new holes This is one way to fix the problem. The other way is get 8 t- nuts and bold your speakers in. just make sure to get a bolt size that will fit thru your holes on the basket (around a 1/4 inch bolt by 1.5 inches long). The t nuts go on the inside of the box, and have metal prongs like teeth which grab into the wood. Then you can take your sub in/out as many times as needed without weakening the wood. Of coarse you will have to predrill the wood to the bolt size. I run these on my wall for my subs and port. but if i drill new holes, that three different screw spots, in the same spot haha, it'll all be broken uppp Drilling new holes is a waste of time. You have a square speaker so you cant really turn it just a little bit and screw into fresh wood. The square subs have more cone area as a normal round sub, but if you take them out enough you run into the problem of screwing into the same holes over and over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.