trainman0978 Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 (edited) I got two of the Powermaster D680 powercells from mechman the other day... I have a run of 1/0 pos. and neg. ran from the front battery to the back of the truck already . My questions are these... 1. Since I have a run of both sides already in place, I know that I need to fuse the pos. wire off the new batteries to the amps... But do I still need to leave the fuse up front at the start of my 1/0 from my factory battery? or do I just need a solid wire with no fuse from the front battery to the rear two batteries? 2. I also know that I will hook up my front battery positive to the first of the two rear batteries positive terminal, then a wire going from the first rear battery pos. to the second rear battery pos. the second battery in the line will also have the pos. wire going to the amps... ? I know I need to keep everything in line... pos. to pos. to pos. to amps...with a inline fuse off of the second rear battery before the amps... right ? 3. I also know that the neg. side should be done the same way... neg. to neg. to neg. and the second rear battery needs a ground going off it to the frame right? 4. If I keep my inline fuse on the pos. wire up front on my factory battery, There is no need for me to fuse the same wire before I connect it to the two new batteries in the back .. right? I should only need to buy a few more 1/0 ring terminals and one inline fuse holder and fuse, along with about 6 feet or so of both 1/0 pos and neg. wire to be ready to install everything. I have about 4 ft of 1/0 left over and two or three 1/0 ring terminals and a firewall grommet for the floor... Edited October 10, 2008 by trainman0978 Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue my upgrades and "build" thread. My Kulicki Box Build -Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars -Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash ) -JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi - Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box. -Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio -All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0, -270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum- -2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz. Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namosh Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 You definately need a fuse at both ends of your front to back run of 1/0 pos. As close to each end as is practical. Quote My Ram Quad Cab Blow-through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 Yes leave the fuse up front comming off front battery pos AND fuse BEFORE your BACK batterys pos. Then just wire both back batterys together pos to pos.. neg to neg.. Then the last battery in the back wire pos and neg off to your amp(s)... You don't need to ground to the frame because you have a neg run going to front battery... Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightshade Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 It would still definately be beneficial to ground the rear batteries to the frame even though you have a run of negative to the rear. It's only going to help to stiffen the ground to the rear batteries. Do it, it's not much work and will help out some. Quote 2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo 1 Sundown Audio SCV2000 1 Sundown Audio X15 V2 1 XS Power D3100 Audio Control LC6i Stock Deck 146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz 2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore ChampionHighest NSPL Scores to date:154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lance_aka_64 Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) more ground is more ground. it cant hurt to also ground to the body/frame. it will only help complete the circuit that much better. Edited October 11, 2008 by lance_aka_64 Quote Need any thing chromed? Hit me up!!! gamer tag: (360) mEmEnToMoRi64 My Myspace refs: from here: RollinSoLow, Derrick824, Ray from c.a.c.o. : teamsubgopoof, splvictim20, SundownAudioNY from C.A.J. : Donpisto, spladdict19, CAJunkyard, JBLCAMRY, DasBot (robot underground) from ca.com: alxmlr789,photocrazy8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 True that if you got the wire.. More is always better!!! Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainman0978 Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 okay. thanks guys. I am a little pissed though, even though these batteries are really small, they still wont fit where I want them too.... My wires coming up out the floor are not long enough to reach where I may need to put them, so I may end up having to build a new enclosure.....aaarrrgghhhh.....I though I left enough length for the hook ups when I originally ran them...I may be able to mount them on the same board that I have the amps though, I gotta do a little more experimenting... I dont want to have to use a 1/0 butt connector ... I think they kinda defeat the purpose of using a solid run of wire... Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue my upgrades and "build" thread. My Kulicki Box Build -Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars -Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash ) -JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi - Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box. -Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio -All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0, -270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum- -2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz. Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 okay. thanks guys. I am a little pissed though, even though these batteries are really small, they still wont fit where I want them too.... My wires coming up out the floor are not long enough to reach where I may need to put them, so I may end up having to build a new enclosure.....aaarrrgghhhh.....I though I left enough length for the hook ups when I originally ran them...I may be able to mount them on the same board that I have the amps though, I gotta do a little more experimenting... I dont want to have to use a 1/0 butt connector ... I think they kinda defeat the purpose of using a solid run of wire... even if you got a 1/0 wire coupler it wouldn't hurt. i had one and i seen no drop in voltage Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 okay. thanks guys. I am a little pissed though, even though these batteries are really small, they still wont fit where I want them too.... My wires coming up out the floor are not long enough to reach where I may need to put them, so I may end up having to build a new enclosure.....aaarrrgghhhh.....I though I left enough length for the hook ups when I originally ran them...I may be able to mount them on the same board that I have the amps though, I gotta do a little more experimenting... I dont want to have to use a 1/0 butt connector ... I think they kinda defeat the purpose of using a solid run of wire... Ya I hear ya.. I don't like using those connectors either... You already have a fuse back there? You can't just put a longer piece after the fuse? Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcnaught82 Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Let me get this right. If I run a battery in the rear, I need to fuse it in the front and put another fuse right before the wire goes to the second battery? Quote Team Deadly Hertz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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