uhoh_45 Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 when mounting subs in a wall what are the best screws to use R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
raytard Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 they usually work, unless you're using something nuts, in that case go for t-nuts, which you can find at almost any hardware store (lowes, home depot, etc..) Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC
galacticmonkey Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 Just use regular screws. You will be just fine. If you're breaking screws, its because your baffle is flexing.
raytard Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 ^agreed lots of people run multiple kilowatt setups with drywall or deck screws holding the subs in, deck screws may be a good idea, as you can get them with square tops, which are almost impossible to remove without the right driver Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC
uhoh_45 Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Posted October 27, 2008 doubt my baffles going to be flexing all that much and i was just wondering because the screws i was using before were slippin a bit R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
David Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 Just use regular screws. You will be just fine. If you're breaking screws, its because your baffle is flexing. I seen meade snap screws, and I know for a fact that his box does not flex, so IMO regular screws dont allways work in High powered set ups. some people like the T-nuts, I seen some others called hurricane nuts that seem like a better t-nut someone on this forum showed them on here before thats why I said search is your friend this is not the first discussion on this topic.
wasted ink Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 x2 on the tee nuts... with allen head bolts Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log
ALPINE408 Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 X1000000 on the deck screws with the square head i have yet to breâk onè and they make mounting the sub a lil more easy bèing that square tip grabs the screw better less likely to stab a sub Have you ever had your woofers blown?
galacticmonkey Posted October 27, 2008 Report Posted October 27, 2008 Well Ive used both T-Nuts and regular screws. No advantage with T-Nuts. Just use longer, thicker screws. In my box right now I have regular screws and I havent had a problem yet.
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