Poping Fuses In Amp

[n31l_m4nu3l]

It hasen't got hot on me yet cuz i cant turn it up!

[roscoe1129]

also do you have to 1ohm mono or stereo cuzz its a 2 channel amp and that could be another reason.

[wL<3bass]

I own a directed 1200t and it calls for 3 30a fuses. its wired at 1 ohm bridged. And once i turn it up to certin point and it pops the fuses like nuthin'.

could this be cuz i dont have any inline fuse off the battery?

1ohm bridged....so you mean .5ohm stereo.....no wonder your blowing fuses....you ohm load is to low....and yes you ground and positive should be the same size.

edit: roscoe and I think alike...he just types faster....

Edited November 14, 2008 by wL<3bass

[n31l_m4nu3l]

Hm, thats a good question. i'm not quite sure of the exact specs of this amp cuz there hard to come across. but i do kno it has a switch that says mono or stereo. Theres also a LED light that indicates its doing a 1 ohm load. Also theres a switch on the side that says 1ohm or 2/4 ohms. i looked all over for specs for this amp an i coulden't find them.

[E-Train]

I dont think that amp is meant to be run at 1Ohm bridged, I just looked up the specs on it and it says 1 Ohm: 500x2, so idk if i'm reading it wrong or if that means bridged....

Edit: Damn i'm slow....

Edited November 14, 2008 by e_train

[dmanson]

you need to run 4ga with that amp bro for power and ground man.

[n31l_m4nu3l]

Ok so how would u suggest me wire these at stereo or mono at 4 ohm?

[roscoe1129]

Hm, thats a good question. i'm not quite sure of the exact specs of this amp cuz there hard to come across. but i do kno it has a switch that says mono or stereo. Theres also a LED light that indicates its doing a 1 ohm load. Also theres a switch on the side that says 1ohm or 2/4 ohms. i looked all over for specs for this amp an i coulden't find them.

easy enough to find

RMS continuous power per channel, driven in 4

ohm mode @ 14.4 VDC

RMS continuous power per channel, driven in 1

ohm mode @ 14.4 VDC

225 Watts RMS @ 4 ohms

450 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms

900 Watts bridged @ 4 ohms

150 Watts RMS @ 4 ohms

275 Watts RMS @ 2 ohms

500 Watts RMS @ 1 ohms

1000 Watts bridged @ 2 ohms

and heres a link to the manual

manual link

EDIT: ha ha your all toooooo slow!

[audiofanaticz]

His problem is that he is pushing his amp too hard.

You said you have it bridged at 1 ohm.

Its a 2 channel amp, its only stable down to 1 ohm STEREO. Its rated for 500wrms by 2 @ 1 ohm stereo.

When you bridge 2 channels of a amp together at 1 ohm like your saying you done, you are pushing each Channel at .5 ohms bridged. Where the amp is only 1 ohm stable stereo, 2 ohm stable bridged.

Your fuses keep blowing because you are drawing too much current thru the fuses to have the amp produce power at 1 ohm bridged (.5 ohms per channel). Your fuses are popping which is preventing your amp to heat up due to the extra current, and blow your amp.

You could try putting in two 30 amp fuses and one 40 amp fuse and see if the fuses still blow. You will be at 100 amps of fusing.

If it blows,

Try two 40 amp fuses, and one 30 amp fuse.

If it blows,

Try three 40 amp fuses, 120 amps total of fusing, 30 amps more then manufactures specs.

Running the amp at a lower impedance, even if its still a stable impedance/ohm load is going to cause more amperage to be sucked from your electrical system, resulting in blowing fuses.

Id however not reccomend upgrading the fuses unless you monitor your amp temps freq for a while. But lets just say that you better prey for that thermal protection to kick on to protect the amp from over heating, because most likely the fuses arent gonna blow.

But yea. Your amp is only 2 ohm stable bridged (mono), 1 ohm stable stereo per channel.

Running your amp at 1 ohm bridged (mono), is running each channel at .5 ohms, and is what is blowing the fuses.

[wL<3bass]

His problem is that he is pushing his amp too hard.

You said you have it bridged at 1 ohm.

Its a 2 channel amp, its only stable down to 1 ohm STEREO. Its rated for 500wrms by 2 @ 1 ohm stereo.

When you bridge 2 channels of a amp together at 1 ohm like your saying you done, you are pushing each Channel at .5 ohms bridged. Where the amp is only 1 ohm stable stereo, 2 ohm stable bridged.

Your fuses keep blowing because you are drawing too much current thru the fuses to have the amp produce power at 1 ohm bridged (.5 ohms per channel). Your fuses are popping which is preventing your amp to heat up due to the extra current, and blow your amp.

You could try putting in two 30 amp fuses and one 40 amp fuse and see if the fuses still blow. You will be at 100 amps of fusing.

If it blows,

Try two 40 amp fuses, and one 30 amp fuse.

If it blows,

Try three 40 amp fuses, 120 amps total of fusing, 30 amps more then manufactures specs.

Running the amp at a lower impedance, even if its still a stable impedance/ohm load is going to cause more amperage to be sucked from your electrical system, resulting in blowing fuses.

Id however not reccomend upgrading the fuses unless you monitor your amp temps freq for a while. But lets just say that you better prey for that thermal protection to kick on to protect the amp from over heating, because most likely the fuses arent gonna blow.

But yea. Your amp is only 2 ohm stable bridged (mono), 1 ohm stable stereo per channel.

Running your amp at 1 ohm bridged (mono), is running each channel at .5 ohms, and is what is blowing the fuses.

Hehe thats what I was thinking I'm just to lazy to type all that info this late at night.