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Poping Fuses In Amp


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just add up the fuses in the amp(s) and use the fuse chart to determine the size power/ground wire.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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lol using fuses bigger then recommended is how you blow amps

Not true at all.

With your theory, any amp being ran at a lower ohm load to produce more power, which increases current draw, which then increases rated fuse amperage would fry your amp.

So with that said, all these people that run their sundown amps or crunch 3000gp's at half ohm daily should have fried amps. Or all those people burping their stetsom amps at .25 ohms would blow them.

A amp that does say 3000wrms at 1 ohm is going to be fused at 300 amps (if its a amp that does acutally rms ratings). When you drop that amp down to .5 ohms, your increasing a demand for amperage, the higher amperage equals are higher fuse rating maybe around 350-400 amps.

Running a amp at a lower ohm load then its specified will not blow an amp if you taken the proper precautions to prevent it. It may wear out the amps capacitors a bit faster but your amp could still play flawlessly for years and years to come. You just need a up to par electrical system to back up your amp(s). And of coarse dropping a 1000 watt amp down to a lower ohm load is not going to be no where near demanding on your electrical system vs a 3000 watt amp being dropped down.

Wow...........................

x2

 

 

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Also, lets not forget about the old Rockford Fosgate 1501bd's that where 2 ohm stable monoblock amps, that many people have removed the protect circuit to be able to run the amps at 1 ohm. Those amps ran fine at a 1 ohm load, of coarse tho if you fried a sub, or arched the pos and neg speaker terminals together the amp would go up in smoke. Why did the amp go up in smoke? Not because your running it at 1 ohm instead of the manufactures minimum 2 ohm load rating, but because you have removed the protection circuit from the amp which would of turned the amp off to prevent damage.

 

 

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hey bangin good info in theory... half of those amps are built very solid and can handle such nonsense but that doesnt mean you can do so with all amps. you cant say well a rx-7 redlines at 9k rpm so my honda civic with a "tuner" and exhaust must be able to redline that high too right? bottom line dei doesnt equal fosgate stetsom sundown ect. if they did then people would be buying those amps and competing with them. But whatever do what you do... i work at a shop that repairs amplifiers so have fun bumping up those fuses and once the amp blows ill buy it for 10 bucks shipped... sell it for 80

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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Put all 3 40a fuses in and the thing slams.... beat the hell outa my diamonds i might have to do the big 3 and all that. And im confused about the specs to this amp for some reason its just confusing to me. i had this amp on 2 type rs and wired them to 1 ohm and it never blew any fuses played flawless

Subs - Diamond d6 12's

Box - Prefab Memphis newer style

Amp - Directed 1200t

Car - 98 Honda Accord LX f23a1

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Running 4 gauge power and some shitty ground i did with a self tapper and like 8 gauge. should i use 4 gauge on the ground? then see what happens...

GET BETTER GROUND ASAP!! that is not a good idea to skip on that believe me had a amp catch fire once...

current setup:

car: 2003 regal ls

subs: 2-10 memphis audio c3

amp: undecided

fronts: Memphis pr 5.25

h/u: pioneer 6100bt

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Your system is only as strong as its weakest point.

Think of it this way. You upgrade you exhaust system on your car to 3" tubing all around. In the middle of the full exhaust, you still have the normal size tubing, lets say 1.75" is how wide that pipe it. Yes it still works and the 4 gauge will pass current but more than the 8 gauge. You have to think of it as a full circuit just like the full exhaust system.

By not upgrading everything to the same size, your system is basically only running off of 8ga power or that 1.75" exhaust still. Not exactly but close to it.

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