Neo_frog Posted December 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 so far it looks better then the last box. i dunno about a single layered wall though. hes right.. the glass should be completely wetted out, but not too excessive with the resin... i was thinking the same thing. have you thought about adding baffles? I was thinking about doubling up, but I'm not sure if I would have the clearance to put the rear subs in.. I'm not gonna rush through this build, so I'll definitely explore my options. Doing that would make me feel a little better about it too. Worst case scenario, I can just brace the inside a little more. =/ I'll see what I have to work with tonight concerning thicker baffles and I'll show you guys pics. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcary Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 I'm far from an expert and no better than you at it, but I will say that I had much better luck with the cloth vs the mat. PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godsmack Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 wish i knew more about walls or anything about glass if i am remembering what i read once before i would think ur resin is too thick.........but i could be wrong as fuck "No poor dumb bastard ever won a war by dying for his country. He did it by making the other poor dumb bastard for his country." George Patton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Well here's the thing about the fiberglass... I'm not sure how to do it right I guess! I usually leave the up side dry (or only a little wet) cause it rips to hell and moves around when I throw a coat over it. EDIT: and after that's dry, I throw more over it. Maybe I'm using shitty mat? Or my resin is too thick? I have clearance to get in there and do more coats. youre mat is fine, and your resin isnt too "thick." brush resin onto the surface, or even use spray adhesive and stick the mat in place. then, dip your bush in a SMALL amount of resin, and push it into the center of the piece of mat. DO NOT brush it like paint. hold pressure for a few seconds in one spot. move to the next dry spot next to it, and work your way out. brushing is what is causing it to become a mess. I'm far from an expert and no better than you at it, but I will say that I had much better luck with the cloth vs the mat. the mat is actually alot stronger than cloth, and holds alot more rigidity when fully cured. this is because of the weave pattern. ill elaborate more if anyone is confused. in this application, stronger is better, so its a good idea to stick with the mat. cloth is decent for long straight sections, when multiple layers and reinforcements (wire, rope) are used. fiberglassforums.com <-------------- read up boys Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 i would definately add more support between the spans of subs. here is a good test....put a pencil on a surface...use a hammer next to the pencil, if you can make the pencil bounce, add more supportx2. and that's a cool lil trick to test. but i'd try to add more there. on my new box i have 16 pieces of threaded rod on each baffle. basically between each sub to help support it. with all those holes in it, it makes the baffles VERY flimsy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 ^^especially with only one baffle Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sampsonite Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Looks promising. I'd cut the back of the headliner off and use what you can. If you pull the wall out, get another headliner from a junkyard. --Sampson 816-591-6592 www.kcrimshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptcary Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 the mat is actually alot stronger than cloth, and holds alot more rigidity when fully cured. this is because of the weave pattern. ill elaborate more if anyone is confused. in this application, stronger is better, so its a good idea to stick with the mat. cloth is decent for long straight sections, when multiple layers and reinforcements (wire, rope) are used. fiberglassforums.com <-------------- read up boys Makes sense, my point was that the cloth is easier to work with. PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasted ink Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Makes sense, my point was that the cloth is easier to work with. i understand what you meant and i agree lol. just wanted to clear that up for anyone who wasnt sure Wasted, Incorporated Up Front: Optima Yellowtop HU:Pioneer Avic N1 w/ 2007 upgrade Front Stage: MB Quart 6.5 comps Rear Fill: Infinity Reference Sub Stage: RE MT 18 Sub Amp: Undecided Sub Enclosure: 5.5 cubes tuned to 33hz Absolute Terminals SkyTec 5100RS 2-Way LCD Pager KnuKonceptz Wire My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galacticmonkey Posted December 3, 2008 Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Another trick with the fiberglass: Lay down some resin where you wanna put mat. Then take whatever piece you wanna glass and soak it in tub with the resin. Then when its totally soaked, just lay it down where you want it and use a roller to get the air bubbles. Personally, I would have done it 4 wide and 2 deep on each baffle, and just staggered them if need be. There is usually a good bit more cancellation with 3 subs deeps versus 2 subs deep on clamshells. For the baffle, just add another layer on top of it (you could flushmount for a clean look) for strength and if need by, you could just put some 2x4s in the box. If you put 2x4s inside the box from the floor to baffle, you can flushmount the screw heads, then put the second baffle over that, so you dont see any screw heads. Then just use L brackets or diagnol mounted screws to mount to the floor, and then glass around the 2x4 and glass it to the baffle and floor. Would be super strong and pretty easy. Thats how it is in my box. I only have a single baffle and the pressure of a bandpass chamber with 24 15s in there and it doesnt flex whatsoever. Heres a couple pics where you can see what Im talkin about. Works awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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