Kasey Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 were the battieries parelleled or seriesed, because 24+ volts could blow some amps That wold definitely blow an amp Quote "Audio is not a hobby it's a lifestyle" _____________________________Refs_1_Refs_2_____________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasey Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) were the battieries parelleled or seriesed, because 24+ volts could blow some amps If they where in series there wold by a lot more problems then just blowing some amps Edited March 31, 2009 by 916PublicEnemy2 Quote "Audio is not a hobby it's a lifestyle" _____________________________Refs_1_Refs_2_____________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loopkiller Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Not from a technical standpoint it doesn't. Just because he said it was charged, does not give me any indication that it really was. There were no details or voltages provided in his post that would allow me to assume that, yes, the battery really was fully and properly charged. I guess we should question how he knew they were charged instead of assuming that they were not charged then. I assumed he was correct when he said they were fully charged. You seemed to have assumed they must not have been charged. Difference of opinion. In my many years of help and support to spl competitors and customers, if you assume that who you are talking to knows what they are talking about you can waste a lot of valuable time troubleshooting the wrong thing if you dont have all the correct info from the beginning. This guy didn't even send an email or call in to the tech dept to try and figure out what was wrong with his charging system... he just convinced himself that it was the batteries and sent them back before even asking. Makes me wonder why he would even bother posting here after the fact??? I agree. My first call would have been the help line or my supplier. Take a look at our wattage chart and explain why you think the D1200 could not provide supplementary power to a 3,000W amp when installed along with a primary battery? It takes about 180A of current to supply a 3,000W amplifier to full output. Is it not possible that a stock battery paralleled with a D1200 in the back (right next to the amp) could provide 180A of current to the amplifier even taking the alternator out of the equation? Of course it can... and sure the state of the stock battery plays a big role, as does the alternator, and the installation, but I can tell you that the D1200 can provide the bulk of the 180A with no problem. Plus, he was using two D1200's... plus the stock location battery (from what I can tell a Redtop)... if he didnt have enough power with this, then there were definately problems somewhere! Maybe there was a bad battery in the mix... who knows??? Unless we hear back from him, or the batteries show up, we may never know. Hmmm. I would think that a 3000W RMS amp would pull more than 180A at full tilt. My math is this: 3000W / 13.8V / 80% (class D efficiency) = 270A That would be almost a full 100A more than your figure. Unless you are talking about extended play with the engine off, then either the battery was of poor quality, old, or installed/charged improperly. There should be no issues with a 3,000W daily system using a 70+ pound battery. When I give recommendations on the boards, I try to give advice that might seem conservative. I would hate to tell a guy to go out and buy something smaller than he needs. At worst if my advice is overly conservative, he might have spent a little more than he needed to, but he will have plenty of power to spare for an upgrade down the road. Maybe your point of view is that you shouldnt have any voltage drop when the system is under load? If the system is expected to be stable at all times, then the alternator will have to provide 100% of the current needed for the amplifier and the vehicle. For many, this is not possible. Even the most powerful alternators available can only produce around 160A at idle at best. This is not enough current to supply the amplifier at full load without a voltage drop, so it is impractical to expect zero voltage drop from a 3,000W system with an OEM alternator. You are very likely going to exceed the alternator's capabilities, and we have taken this into consideration with our battery recommendations. As you can imagine, there is no way a single recommendation can work for every system. There are always going to be variables in every installation. It is our job to try to educate the end user to choose the most efficient products to meet his or her needs. Maybe this isnt the same way that you and I would build our systems, but we have to start somewhere. Again I would refer back to the math above. I don't think there are any electrical systems that can support 270A of current without major help, unless large voltage drops are acceptable. You are certainly entitled to your own opinion... I am sure it is valuable to many of the forum readers. If they choose to follow your recommendation of more than 1 D1200, that is fine with me... I would hate for people to think less of your products simply because your rating might be inflated for marketing purposes. I come from the school of thinking that you should give people a lower expectation and then wow them with a higher than anticipated product. That tends to make a life long customer for your company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiej Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 I guess we should question how he knew they were charged instead of assuming that they were not charged then. I assumed he was correct when he said they were fully charged. You seemed to have assumed they must not have been charged. Difference of opinion. I agree. My first call would have been the help line or my supplier. Hmmm. I would think that a 3000W RMS amp would pull more than 180A at full tilt. My math is this: 3000W / 13.8V / 80% (class D efficiency) = 270A That would be almost a full 100A more than your figure. When I give recommendations on the boards, I try to give advice that might seem conservative. I would hate to tell a guy to go out and buy something smaller than he needs. At worst if my advice is overly conservative, he might have spent a little more than he needed to, but he will have plenty of power to spare for an upgrade down the road. Again I would refer back to the math above. I don't think there are any electrical systems that can support 270A of current without major help, unless large voltage drops are acceptable. I would hate for people to think less of your products simply because your rating might be inflated for marketing purposes. I come from the school of thinking that you should give people a lower expectation and then wow them with a higher than anticipated product. That tends to make a life long customer for your company. 280A is actually more realistic... that should teach me to refrain from technical recommendations at midnight after a full day of it at work! My mistake! The majority of D class amplifiers will actually run around 70% efficient, with efficiency decreasing as power increases. At full output is when you would expect the least efficient situation, and have current draw in the 280A range (not 180 as I originally mentioed) In response to your last comment above: The #1 reason I am subscribed to this post, and continue to provide input on this topic is because I would also hate for our customers to think less of our products simply because of your comments. I hope that the buying consumer that visits this forum does not lose confidence in the recommendations from us (the manufactururer) simply from your comments based on your experience in your own installs (that did not use our product). I would like to invite you to try our batteries out on your next installation... we have put many years of dc electrical experience into the design of our batteries, and I am sure you will be happy with the results. Thanks for your input! Quote XS POWER Batteries, Chargers & Accessories 888-4XS-POWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundzright Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 what all goes into the recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundownz Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Perhaps the OP simply had really bad luck - that is always a possibility as well I've had more than a few XS Power batteries (I'd say I've owned over 20 easily) and not a single issue for any reason no matter what kind of application I have put them in. Quote - Jacob Fuller - Owner, Sundown Audio - Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK - Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loopkiller Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Any chance the OP received word back on that amp yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiej Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Any chance the OP received word back on that amp yet? Probably not... I've been watching for some D1200's to come in on returns, but nothing... patiently waiting... Quote XS POWER Batteries, Chargers & Accessories 888-4XS-POWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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