Buy Fi Or Wait For Smd?

[AI James]

Let me say I love BTL's, but I just sold mine to buy SMD subs. . .I am not worried about the wait. The delays were beyond Scott's control. When I saw the proto at his office, I knew I had to have them.

I would also like to say there always seems to be a lot of mis-info on how much power you need to use a certain driver. This gets brought up over and over at ***. I am going to have to disagree with some of the comments above. . .

Example - It does not matter if you have 100, 200, 1000, or whatever watts, the BTL is the loudest sub sub Fi makes. Let's say you have 1000 watts. The Q is not automatically your best choice as a sub just because you are closer to its power rating. The BTL still has the potential to be louder.

Same thing with the SMD sub. You may not have the power to drive it to its limits, and you might save money buying a BTL, but that does not mean you have to have 3500 watts just to use it and get good performance out of it.

Brian

that post is why alot of people here get confused. As myself ive seen steve state to people that they Needed to have the power to run his subs.

Althought i understand where hes coming from, i understand where your coming from also, but people will get confused when Steves telling them run big power to it and others say you dont need it.

[Kicker Guy]

Let me say I love BTL's, but I just sold mine to buy SMD subs. . .I am not worried about the wait. The delays were beyond Scott's control. When I saw the proto at his office, I knew I had to have them.

I would also like to say there always seems to be a lot of mis-info on how much power you need to use a certain driver. This gets brought up over and over at ***. I am going to have to disagree with some of the comments above. . .

Example - It does not matter if you have 100, 200, 1000, or whatever watts, the BTL is the loudest sub sub Fi makes. Let's say you have 1000 watts. The Q is not automatically your best choice as a sub just because you are closer to its power rating. The BTL still has the potential to be louder.

Same thing with the SMD sub. You may not have the power to drive it to its limits, and you might save money buying a BTL, but that does not mean you have to have 3500 watts just to use it and get good performance out of it.

Brian

As I agree with you, I also believe that getting as much as you can out of the money you spend is also wise.

[Chicken]

this is steve......at chickens.......on his account ( i promise)......

the reason i say that shit is because on the real, if it is 3500rms and all you have is 1000 watts, im not gonna push my sub on you when there is a more suitable sub for the power you are providing. Id love for everyone with 500w to buy my sub but will they be happy? will they bitch because it says SMD and its not as loud as they thought? i dunno....if its a 3500rms sub i would say come with at least 2500w......2000 if thats all u got and plan to upgrade later........but 1500 and below, there is much better subs that will get the fuck out the box on that power a little more.

just my 2 cents.....back to my 40oz

....meade

[roscoe1129]

this is steve......at chickens.......on his account ( i promise)......

the reason i say that shit is because on the real, if it is 3500rms and all you have is 1000 watts, im not gonna push my sub on you when there is a more suitable sub for the power you are providing. Id love for everyone with 500w to buy my sub but will they be happy? will they bitch because it says SMD and its not as loud as they thought? i dunno....if its a 3500rms sub i would say come with at least 2500w......2000 if thats all u got and plan to upgrade later........but 1500 and below, there is much better subs that will get the fuck out the box on that power a little more.

just my 2 cents.....back to my 40oz

....meade

Alchy

[bkolfo4]

I agreed they might save money, but the two points I was making were:

1. Regardless of power, the SMD sub may still turn out to be the loudest sub Fi/AA makes. If it is, it will be louder than the other subs, even if only on 500 watts. How much louder, we will have to wait and see - As already stated, it may not be enough to justify the cost increase for some people.

2. Just because you have a limited amount of power, you do not have to buy a sub that will be maxed out at that power. The sub that meets your budget, installation needs, and goals will be the best choice.

As far as Steve's comment you stated - That is a problem with inexperienced users. You can only get the performance of the weakest link in the system. If they don't understand their weakest link, they really do not need to be buying a sub like this anyway.

Brian

[dwright27]

w00t for brian?