bkolfo4 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ok, why in the hell would you ever want to run one voice coil of a subwoofer. If you have a dual voice coil woofer get an amp that will match impedance with BOTH coils wired. If you really like you amp, then get a subwoofer with coils that will match amps stability when wired. Both coils ARE SUPPOSED to be connected. If you want to hook up one get a Single voice coil subwoofer. That is the most retarded myth ever. There is no good reason to connect only one voice coil. If you do and it doesn't blow, then you have a tough woofer, but its still not good for it. Connect one voice coil Maybe you want to use the other coil to vary the Q. Another myth is both coils have to get the exact same signal. Not true. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 The only time I can think of mechanical limits being an issue is running way too small of a box if running clean power etc etc... Then it would possibly push the cone past Xmax. As far as only running one coil, you can disconnect, short, put a fixed resistor, or a variable resistor on the other coil(s) to change the Q. 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleitaly1990 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 This may seem obvious, but Root Mean Power (RMS) ratings are the MOST power the manufacterer recommends for that sub. This is a combination of the Mechanical and Electrical limits of the subwoofer. When you speak in terms of a sub moving X distance to produce Y cooling, keep in mind what is causing that movement in the firs place: ELECTRICAL POWER (Faraday Induction, actually, but that's besides the point). Flowing less current through a wire makes LESS heat not more. I really think certain manufacterers claim this because they want to sell you a big, high-priced amp to push those subs. Clever marketing, I think, but not plausible physics. This is true, but what I'm trying to get at (and like I said, just a newb with a hypothesis) is yes less electrical power means less heat, but on some frequencies, and with some subs, the woofer may not move enough to cool the coils, even though there is less heat than if it were at it's rated RMS. A vitrolic, megalomaniacal sadistic psychopath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cc_audio Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Maybe you want to use the other coil to vary the Q.Again, get a different driver that will fit your application. There's too many options in drivers to justify running one voicecoil and risking failure. Also, running different wattage to coils is usually a case of two different size amplifiers. A friend of mine ran his sub like that for years without failure, as long as there's power, the heat expansion and contraction won't react so differently that it causes problems. BUT, his woofer sounded like shit as far as SQ. Each amp had its own unique signal so to say. When the sub tried to reproduce both amps signals the clarity wasn't anywhere near as good as equal wattage from one or two (same) amps. It's all gone! The Celica Build Feedback If I buy something from you, DO NOT USE FEDEX! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 This is true, but what I'm trying to get at (and like I said, just a newb with a hypothesis) is yes less electrical power means less heat, but on some frequencies, and with some subs, the woofer may not move enough to cool the coils, even though there is less heat than if it were at it's rated RMS.If there is less heat under RMS thermal power handling, then why would it be necessary to cool a cool coil? Seriously though, in my experience, subwoofer coils usually don't fry instantly on music. If you are using that speaker on something with a beat (cooling pause between work), then under RMS power is just not going to be a problem. If it is, then the manufacterer should never have unleashed that on the general public. Think about having a sub that blows because you turn the volume on 19 instead of 27!! That would be crazy. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littleitaly1990 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 If there is less heat under RMS thermal power handling, then why would it be necessary to cool a cool coil? Seriously though, in my experience, subwoofer coils usually don't fry instantly on music. If you are using that speaker on something with a beat (cooling pause between work), then under RMS power is just not going to be a problem. If it is, then the manufacterer should never have unleashed that on the general public. Think about having a sub that blows because you turn the volume on 19 instead of 27!! That would be crazy. lol that's what I'm trying to say...it would be far from usual, but plausible. Just a certain design of the sub that needs a lot of power to move and a lot of movement to cool. And 800 watts going to a 1000rms sub is not by any means cool if that particular design of sub doesn't move a lot with 800 watts, but does with 1000. I'm sure enclosure plays a huge role in this as well... I'm speaking more of an exception to the rule situation. It would be crazy for a sub on volume 19 to blow and not 27, that doesn't make it technically impossible. A vitrolic, megalomaniacal sadistic psychopath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 The reason dual voice coils were first introduced was to adjust the Q, not for double the power 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 that's what I'm trying to say...it would be far from usual, but plausible. Just a certain design of the sub that needs a lot of power to move and a lot of movement to cool. And 800 watts going to a 1000rms sub is not by any means cool if that particular design of sub doesn't move a lot with 800 watts, but does with 1000. I'm sure enclosure plays a huge role in this as well... I'm speaking more of an exception to the rule situation. It would be crazy for a sub on volume 19 to blow and not 27, that doesn't make it technically impossible.That 1000 watt RMS sub is still going to move at 800 watts, just proportionately less. It still has less heat being generated in the first place, and excursion IS going to take place at 80% of RMS. I do agree with you, though, on the fact that the cooling properties of a subwoofer change with power input. I respectfully disagree that this is going to cause a coil to melt in the real world on music with a clean signal under RMS. Also, obviously, the enclosure is the biggest factor of all.Lanman, not to thread jack, but how do you like those 1232Ds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HHR Ed Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 MYTH: You have to break in a subwoofer with a certain method of playing before you can increase power to its RMS rating. Fact: No you dont. Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrafrica Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 what about if a sub has a super stiffspider and the sub will take 2500 rms and your throwin it abit below what will get it to move lets say you need like 600 watts to move it a quarter of an inch and your throwin it 475 wont it heat up over time? and like if your runnin a pa amp thru a sub to make it a loud speaker? cause then its making it play loud but its not moving the cone much at all. And far as the best connection ever....... get a huge fucking battery, cut the top off, drop an alt in there and then pour all that into your big amplifier. or just smelt them all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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