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Subwoofer Myths And Facts


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I think you're all full of crap! But no, doesn't work like that.

2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds

1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4

4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's

1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass

1 - Alphasonic PCT6551

1 - Lanzar VX830

1 - JBL 22 band EQ

1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU

1 - AudioControl Epic160

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either way it will not make a difference.... in no way shape or form.... i understand the breaking in thing with engines, there are multiple moving parts that need to be properly lubricated before harsh use..... but a sub... is just a sub.... you want it to be as stiff as possible for mechanical efficiency purposes.....

So untrue.

A stiffer brand new sub is going to require more power to hit say 150db's then the same sub in the same exact setup and car only broken in.

Almost every sub spl or big beefy sub gets louder after it is broken in (this does not include your walmart sold type speakers with a single layer spider).

 

 

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I think you're all full of crap! But no, doesn't work like that.

Full of crap... hahaha

I've had it on a song that i played and i needed to go to the toilet quite fast.

It was on a song with quite high bass, i think a millie(lil wayne) a bit slowed.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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So untrue.

A stiffer brand new sub is going to require more power to hit say 150db's then the same sub in the same exact setup and car only broken in.

Almost every sub spl or big beefy sub gets louder after it is broken in (this does not include your walmart sold type speakers with a single layer spider).

I have never had mine get more than .3 dB louder after weeks of being hammered on, but the peak frequency shifts several Hz which makes them sound much louder playing music. . .

Brian

edit - I did not mean this post to disagree with you - just giving the results I have had with break in.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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.3 db is a a bit louder tho. considering you have this hardcore db drag guys in street classes doing anything and everything for that extra tenth (like running 4 or 5 runs more power wire just for that .1).

If your at a 149.7 and 150 was your goal. congratulations you got your goal.

 

 

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I've seen a lot of "rumored" information, and I've seen some very false information as well. I wanted to clear some things up for some people.

1. The #1 thing I hear all the time is underpowering subs will blow them. I'm throwing the BS flag way high on this one. If this was the case, you'd have to play your subs at full tilt below clipping or not at all, or else every time you turn down your volume, they'd blow.

2. You DO NOT have to run both voice coils for a dual voice coil sub. Same goes with all four on a quad coil sub. Your power input would have to be halved since you're running a single coil, but it won't melt or blow. You can then put a variable resistor on the second coil to change the sound of the sub, but I'll let you do some research on that. Here's some light reading - http://www.geocities.com/f4ier/dvc.htm

3. "My sub is rated for 500 watts and I put 500 watts into it and it blew" First thing to ask yourself - are your gains set properly? If not, then there's your problem. Woofers fail mainly because of one of two things - mechanical and burnt coils. Burnt coils usually happen when you put way over the rated wattage into them, and mechanical if the cone exceeds the max excursion. If you'd put an ampprobe around your speaker wires, you'll notice they push some amperage. The coils can only handle so much amperage. When you are clipping, you're peaking way beyond the 500 watts, and pushing a dirty signal at that. One byproduct of amperage is heat, and when it gets warm enough, your speakers start to smell and let off magic smoke.

Questions, comments, concerns, ask away.

Most people would disagree with this. In fact I have been told by certain company owners not to do this lol. But for anyone that has a few min this is a good read.

http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/DualVoiceCoilDrivers.pdf

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Sub Amp:American Bass VFL 500.1

Subs: 4 Fi BL 18's

Enclosure:21.5 Cubic foot flat wall tuned to 40 hz

Batteries: 3 Kinetik 2400's in the back, Kinetik 1200 under hood.

Mids & Highs: 4 Kicker DS 6.5 coax in doors, 2 Kicker DS coax in pillars

Highs Amp: Kicker kx250.2, kx100.2

Wire: 4 Runs 1/0 gauge Knukonceptz

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Myth. The brown note doesn't exist.

I wasnt talking about the brown note.

You would think that all of the vibrations would make your shit slide down a little easier, especially in steves car :D

2003 Pontiac Vibe Dark Red

18" Motegi MR-7's

2 Alpine Type-R 6.5" Coaxial Speakers on the front doors

Alpine CDA Head Unit w/IPod Cable

Alpine V-Power mono mr650

12" Alpine Type-R(2 Ohm) Subwoofer

Dynamat in the trunk with the liscense plate and,

2 Stock tweaters in the front, with the stock speakers in the back seats

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