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Is It Dead?


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Ive got a soundstream t4-15 subwoofer. yesterday when i was driving to work i was listening to "fuck a nigga thoughts" at the highest level my system can handle before distorting/clipping.

when in the middle of the song when i heard a slight pop and the subwoofer stopped playing.

I checked today if there were connections loose. There werent any.

Amplifier lights up, green light. No protect mode or anything.

I connected my old 10 inch mtx woofer to the amp and it works perfectly.

The sub doesnt/didnt smell or does it make a scratching noise when i push the cone down.

How can i check if its really dead?

I already got my eye on 2 Rockford Fosgate 12" HX2's (500+500rms)...

'99 Civic hatch

18" AA Chaos - 7cuft @ 34hz - 114sq in. port

Mac Audio Fearless ~ 1000wrms @ 2 Ohms

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meter the sub that you think is blow.. depending on what it is like dual 4 or dual 2.. if it reads ither one of thoes its ok if not its blown.. just connect the volt meter to the positive and the negitive on the sub

he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick:

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and put the multi meter on the ohms setting or the little horseshoe it will work to check the resistance

one coil reads 1.8 (when i hold it completely still otherwise the numbers just keep changin), the other coil reads nothing even when i move the multimeter cables around.

i guess its toasted a coil?

'99 Civic hatch

18" AA Chaos - 7cuft @ 34hz - 114sq in. port

Mac Audio Fearless ~ 1000wrms @ 2 Ohms

Videos:

Youtube

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one coil reads 1.8 (when i hold it completely still otherwise the numbers just keep changin), the other coil reads nothing even when i move the multimeter cables around.

i guess its toasted a coil?

im not a pro but id say its soundin a lil fryed. the number fluctuating is ok and changes unless you have oush terminals then just put the prongs from the DMM into them. but since the one isnt givin anything id think its no good.

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FRIED. sounds like you got it a little too hot and had some glue fail on you

Now my question is, since only 1 coil is blown, and the other is giving out a reading and has conductivity, couldn't he just run that subs 1 good coil and still produce bass?

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yeah but then hes throwing out 1000 rms to one coil that is designed to take 500 watts maybe 600 if hes careful

That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

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Yes, unless the coil is now rubbing, meaning scratching sounds, more friction, and more heat.

can you see if you broke/ripped a tinsel lead on the one coil?

head unit - Panasonic MXE CQ-C7403U

amp - Cerwin-Vega EXL 1200D

subs - (x2) Cerwin Vega V-MAX 15.4

box - 5.8 ^3 at 32hz

spkrs- Phoenix Gold Rsd Comps

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Yes, unless the coil is now rubbing, meaning scratching sounds, more friction, and more heat.

can you see if you broke/ripped a tinsel lead on the one coil?

nope cant see anything.

i hooked it up to my stereo just to test it out. one coil played the sub, the other didnt.

i already accepted the fact its blown, sad though.

you think clipping caused it? or age?

i was always careful playing the sub, never played too long & stuff.

'99 Civic hatch

18" AA Chaos - 7cuft @ 34hz - 114sq in. port

Mac Audio Fearless ~ 1000wrms @ 2 Ohms

Videos:

Youtube

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