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thats what i thought around 34 to 36 hertz i guess ill do like 35 right in the middle 45 to 60 hertz is like some 15's or 18's i guess thats way to high for some tens

holla

actually, most people tune bigger subs to a lower hz. thats why steves 18s are at 30 hz. not 45-60 like you say.

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first of all, its a good idea that you dont say max watts ever again cause these guys will rip your head off for that. lol. anyway, 35-38 hz would be perfect for you.

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how do u know that the re calculator isnt accurate have any of yall used that calculator before and build a box from there calculator i am just wondering cause if u are not recomending it then why are u not recomending it well if yall think it is a bad calculator how can i get 35 hertz with a box 38 wide 14.5 depth and 11.5 high what should my port lenth be and i want the port in the center and the reason i am going to use that calculator is because if i dont like how it sounds i can just change the port L2 to change the hertz

holla

Edited by white_boi_audio

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"MY RIDE"

1987 Chevy Cavalier Z24 2.8L V6 -- CB Radio with PA speaker

Head Unit: 7 inch Jensen Flip-out -- Speakers: 4 Visonik 6 1/2s and 4 Visonik 6x9s

Subwoofer: One Audiobahn 18 - Sub Amp: Power Acoustik OV1-2000d 2000 watt monoblock amp --

Battery in back - Kinetic HC600 -- Sub box: Custom built 5 cubic foot tuned to 30 hertz

Coming soon: Bigger Highs Amp, Power inverter

"WhItE bOi AuDiO"

"FEAR THE DUCK"

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ahhh its ok, but this is better winisd

and actually Alpine is right, if you want high SPL #'s and dont care about SQ at all, tune to your vehicles peak resonant frequency. most vehicles thats in the upper octave of bass, 45 to 70ish hz.

it will not sound good at all on music, some people have figured out ways to get some good numbers @ lower frequencies, but trust me, they didnt use no RE Box calculator to do it.

some of the loudest burp cars in teh world burp in teh 60's and 70's

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ahhh its ok, but this is better winisd

and actually Alpine is right, if you want high SPL #'s and dont care about SQ at all, tune to your vehicles peak resonant frequency. most vehicles thats in the upper octave of bass, 45 to 70ish hz.

it will not sound good at all on music, some people have figured out ways to get some good numbers @ lower frequencies, but trust me, they didnt use no RE Box calculator to do it.

some of the loudest burp cars in teh world burp in teh 60's and 70's

hey Dave, i compared RE's calc and WinISD and i looked at both port lengths and they came pretty close to each other. is there something im missing? seems like RE calc is good.

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refs: chode69, superduper

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yall must have not understood me i dont just want some loud ass shit i want it to be as loud as i can get it but for it to still sound good on music if this can help i usually listen to rap music and i am just going to be running two tens on a 600 watt 2 channel amp. so i thought around 35 hertz that is what steve told me and so i went into that calculator and changed some of my demensions so i could get right at 35 hertz does that sound good for it to be loud ass possible and still sound good on music or do i need to tune a little higher

holla back

Image15-5.jpg

"MY RIDE"

1987 Chevy Cavalier Z24 2.8L V6 -- CB Radio with PA speaker

Head Unit: 7 inch Jensen Flip-out -- Speakers: 4 Visonik 6 1/2s and 4 Visonik 6x9s

Subwoofer: One Audiobahn 18 - Sub Amp: Power Acoustik OV1-2000d 2000 watt monoblock amp --

Battery in back - Kinetic HC600 -- Sub box: Custom built 5 cubic foot tuned to 30 hertz

Coming soon: Bigger Highs Amp, Power inverter

"WhItE bOi AuDiO"

"FEAR THE DUCK"

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Well, first off, everyone is saying tune here and there, I think the first 2 questions should be, 1) What subs are you running? 2) what car?

This guy could have some 10" Pro audio woofers that look big and beefy with a Fs of 50hz, and a 3mm xmax, and running them in an excursion, if that was the case, everyone would be wrong, and the guy would be blowin subs left and right. I looked thru this thread ( I can be blind from time to time) but I didnt see any mention of subwoofer brand, or car.

I didnt like the Re box calc either, I had Winisd, it was alright, but Bassbox6.0 has been the easiest, and most indepth Ihave used yet, next to actual LEAP/LMS programs

Edited by Forevrbumpn
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I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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Normally i just use RE's calculator for port length. Everything else I do myself. I could do it myself, but RE's calculator is just faster to use. I've never really gotten along with WinISD. I ended up just doing the calculations myself, much easier.

A couple links to some box builds:

Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI,

Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150

My own car builds (current setup --- under construction):

Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors

Subwoofer Wall

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