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wish someone would rip me off, i need some new equipment, and my insurance covers everything, so fuck it, please steal my shit!!

edit* not saying i condone theivery at all, that shit sucks, im just broke as fuck and my shit just aint loud enough anymore.

I'm on my way!! just kidding, you could try selling your equipment.

I used to put screws in the bottom of my enclosure to mount it to the trunk and I would use speaker grilles with irregular screws (neither phillips or flathead) most thieves won't go through the trouble and the grilles keeps them from cutting my subs up since they're pissed because they can't get them out. Now I have a one eyed dog with 17 reasons why you should treat my Camry like a museum (just look and admire) and I have been able to keep my goods for the last 3 years!

1990 Chevy Suburban (Big Booty Judy)

(4) Sundown Audio Zv5 18's

(1) Sundown Audio Salt 12K

(1) Sundown Audio SAX-100.4

(1) Sundown Audio SAE-50.4

(2) Crossfire ST-1 Tweeters

(2) Obsidian Audio ST-1 tweeters

(4) Sundown Audio Neo Pro v3 6.5's

Saving 2nd Bass

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Kind of a weird thread. Almost like you're expecting people to break into your ride like you know it's going to happen and there's nothing you can do about it. So your option is to make sure they cant damage your subs?

What kind of subs are they? In some cases a recone costs less than having to replace an entire sub that's missing.

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MECP_SMALL.jpgCERTIFIED BITCHES!!!

Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks'

Click to see my build!

Proud DC owner

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Kind of a weird thread. Almost like you're expecting people to break into your ride like you know it's going to happen and there's nothing you can do about it. So your option is to make sure they cant damage your subs?

What kind of subs are they? In some cases a recone costs less than having to replace an entire sub that's missing.

LOL. I know it will eventually happen. So I want to protect what I can :aggressive: . I believe I have come up with an answer to almost every problem. For now they are Pyle Audio's subs (I don't care about them too much) but I plan on upgrading soon. I'm still undecided but am 90% sure I'll use the Crunch GPV12D4 subs (till I can afford something better). I've been saying I won't upgrade after those, but I know I probably will. But I've had to redesign the box.

All I want to know is will a wire mesh affect the performance of the sub any?

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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just make a bandpass enclosure...

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

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just make a bandpass enclosure...

I'm not sure if I have the room for that.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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on subs that small wire mesh shouldnt make any difference

wire mesh also wont stop a screwdriver by any stretch of the mind.

if someone wants it theyre gonna get it, if you make it hard theyre going to just break shit.

you wouldnt believe how many cars i've seen where the dash's are ripped apart, center consoles are torn our and smashed in the street, stabbed/slashed/smashed woofers, extra smashed windows, knocked out lights, etc

sometimes its cheaper and easier just to let them get away with your 124$ crunch subs than to have them smash 140$ windows, 300$ lights, and whatever else they want

and that keyed screw is a bad idea. i've never seen a grill i couldnt just pull off the box, ever. Every theif has a crowbar. and even with 8 screws and 4 strips of plumbers tape with lag bolts and keyed screws into the box i've seen boxes removed in 30 seconds(like when paranoid customers blow a sub and forget to bring their security screw key with them, literally took longer to find the seat release than it did to kick it 2 times to break all the screws out of the wood

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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No, no room to invert mount them. That would cost me more space than my current design can spare. My current design uses a cover to protect the subs. From what I've found so far, it shouldn't change the tuning any. The subs are now in the center console and fire upward.

Would the wire mesh affect the airflow any?

EDIT: didn't see your post, raytard. I got the subs BOGO free so I don't have much money in them. I'm gonna bolt them from the inside. I agree that letting the subs go is best, but I do plan on eventually upgrade to something really good. 2 of my windows need replacing anyway (and so do some of the lights) and the dash has several cracks anyway.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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