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what I do for direct connect subs.


Crump

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and that should be the end of the discussion. dj the man from aq himself has spoke.

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4 dd m2a's

kenwood kdc-x994

2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000

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154@37hz and climbing

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Straight out of the MECP Basic Installation Technician Study Guide

"Avoid using wire nuts. Wire nuts were designed for a stationary, stable environment -like inside a house - not many houses are designed to accelerate, decelerate , or corner.

The wire nut will eventually fall off the wire leaving the exposed wiring to short to ground or to a component."

About to sig that. LOL.

just thought this was funny :lol:

how do you make huge technological advancements in melting some alloy on to wire to join them?

...heat it faster :lol:

oh and does anyone want to tell me where in this thread crump said he wanted you to tell him how he should do it.

the title is "what I do for direct connect subs"

The subtitle says " What do you guys do?"

So yeah. He asked us how we do it.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

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On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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Straight out of the MECP Basic Installation Technician Study Guide

"Avoid using wire nuts. Wire nuts were designed for a stationary, stable environment -like inside a house - not many houses are designed to accelerate, decelerate , or corner.

The wire nut will eventually fall off the wire leaving the exposed wiring to short to ground or to a component."

A wire nut is not going to fall off when you electrical tape it on. None the less have you ever tried twisting a wire nut onto regular stranded wire? They lock on pretty tight.

Mecp says this mecp says that, you have to be mecp certified to install at bestbuy but yet they still cant install a simple radio or a pair of door speakers without messing something up..

Mecp is nothing but a bunch or reading that has no hands on training, kind of like when you call up Dell for tech support and all they do is read from a book (if the problem is not in the book your SOL).

oh and does anyone want to tell me where in this thread crump said he wanted you to tell him how he should do it.

the title is "what I do for direct connect subs"

He actually had another post here asking some simple questions that I answered for him. I told him to avoid using butt-connectors on the leads, told him to use large wirenuts and then to tape the wire up. This is what I have been told to by the company I sell products for. As I previously stated Ive been doing this since DD started using the direct connect 5 or so years ago. Its never failed me yet, so I passed the info on to help out another. I have never yet once gave bad tech advice or told someone how to do something half-assed. I tend to pride myself in helping others out right, which you can see by mostly all my posts.

Here is his other thread. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=59548&hl=

Both DD and AQ recommend twisting the wires together and using a wire nut and wrap with electrical tape. This is a copper to copper connection and we think is the best connection possible. It is also fast and easy and makes changing subs very fast when needed to do so. Wire nuts are used in houses because it is required under the electrical codes. Wire nuts work fine on stranded wire.

The weakest connection on a speaker is the speaker terminal itself. These things for the most part are made of steel with a cheap plating. Coils are not made with steel wire so why should terminals? Speaker terminals cost about 15-20 cents each. We spend much more then that for the 10 gauge direct connect copper leads.

Yet another person or owner of a company using the direct connects agreeing with what I told Crump to do and what Twistedchild420 (i think) said. Thanks!!! :)

and that should be the end of the discussion. dj the man from aq himself has spoke.

Only time shall tell :)

 

 

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I get a 25mm^2 copper crimp joiner and then I strip both ends of the wire the same length as the joiner so they overlap inside.

Then I get our 3ft long hex crimps and I crimp it to 25mm then to 18mm. Then tape, or heatshrink if I want it to be tidy.

Yeah you eat up direct-connect wire but maybe 1 inch at a time and I don't shift subs around that much. Just make the wires reasonably long and hex crimp some ring terminals on them and put brass bolts through the sides of your box wherever they will reach to.

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10.x volts fo' life!

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solders conductivity is in the 5-10% range. copper to copper alone has about 98% conductivity.

so if you take two items that are almost 100% efficient with moving electricity, and add another item that yields only 5-10% of the same conductivity that the copper does... how do you determine that it will be better? adding the solder will make the bond stronger, but since there is less conductivity, it will create resistance and slow the flow.

i know you're the leader of T3, so you know a thing or two, but i dont see you being right on this one. the physics makes sense to me :01nocomment8so:

I think most people here are thinking of a solder connection as just having the wires touch eachother and then solder.

That is not the case.

The wires would be twisted together, Copper to copper.

Then soldered.

So its copper to copper with a conductive alloy filling in the voids.

How is that not better than copper to copper with voids?

Ed Lester

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Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

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http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

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5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

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I guess computer ICs should be taped to mother boards now instead of soldered.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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I guess computer ICs should be taped to mother boards now instead of soldered.

Go have a look at how your CPU goes into the motherboard :D

We should all use super-fragile horrible arrangements with hundreds of tiny flimsy pins and a complicated arrangement of levers and clips!

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10.x volts fo' life!

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Well this is getting a little out of hand :D (I think I like it)

Either way, Im going to try this method of using the toppers, because I am a worrier, I worry about shit so I need to test it. If i dont I get nervous, so I went to the Pot ( Home depot not marijuana, Im edge :D ) and got the correct size toppers applicaple for 1-6 gauge or 2-8 gauge and so on. So I did the lil twist thang, and then connected it to a 10 lb weight (like on a bench press) and dropped it off my roof (lil nippy outside tonight) and it held. That cured my nervousness and I am trusting that these taped up toppers will do fine. So I appriciate and understand what everyone is saying, but this is the way I'm going to be doing it. And it will either work or epically fail. Either way I'll post it in the build thread. Thanks and have a nice night :D

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