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Posted

I use liquid nail like its my job

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



TeamDeadlyHertz-HHREd.png


5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

Posted

x two on the liquid nails,but resin is always a good way to go as well.

2007 Chevy Impala LS

1 Crescendo 3KWP

1Crescendo C1000/4

2 DC lvl 4 15's with lvl5 dual .7 coils

1Audio Control Matrix

1 Pioneer P880PRS

1 300 amp Iraggi alt

All power runs done with Knu flex 0/1 guage

1 optima yellow top under the hood

1 XS 5100 and two Deka's in the trunk

4 Crescendo MP-8 mid bass drivers

2 DB Drive p5 5 D Pro Audio tweeters

Posted (edited)

Resin will be the strongest and best solution in your situation. If your panels are structurally sound and have the coin thickness gap you can just grab a $0.99 small tube of clear silicone II and fill the gap. Everybody starts somewhere and I have filled quarter inch gaps with tons of silicone and it still holds solid to this day. No, I will not post pix of the enclosure ha ha

Edited by Noobtastic14_On_Blackberry
Posted

expanding foam maybe would work?? not much but a lil to seal the gap?

other then that like hhr ed said liquid nails ftw and some resin :)

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

Posted

i just built a box for a truck due to the angles of the front baffle the cuts were not perfect so i taped off the outside and put lots of resin

btw thats also how i do my 45s

RIP The 03 prix!

New Ride

2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71

4 DC LVL 4 18s (2 currently installed)

2 DC PAI.2000 (1 currently installed)

1 DC PAI-120.4

Posted
Resin will be the strongest and best solution in your situation. If your panels are structurally sound and have the coin thickness gap you can just grab a $0.99 small tube of clear silicone II and fill the gap. Everybody starts somewhere and I have filled quarter inch gaps with tons of silicone and it still holds solid to this day. No, I will not post pix of the enclosure ha ha

Pics or Ban! LOL

Posted

I did mine with mat and resin, and it's easy quick and cheap but buy it from ace or lowes becuase wal mart is evilll

'06 Mustang GT 5spd

Sundown X10

Sundown SAE 1500.1

Optima Yellow Top D31

Pioneer 7' 

Posted

I did glue it like nobody's business, but some of my cuts were a little wonky (first time with a circ. saw) and my eye isn't apparently perfectly straight at 1:30 AM, so I didnt catch some small gaps until I felt the air shooting out of them.

Although, on the staying together front, I do need some more bracing than I have right now. Might have to get some dowels in there when I start slinging 'glass.

This box has really been a learning curve for me. My last 'two' boxes (I rebaffled my first to fix wonky sub placement and switch to bigger PVC ports) were both tube ported, divorced chamber boxes, so the center wall kinda served as bracing I guess? This is my first slot port and common chamber, so I'm frankly not surprised I underestimated what I would need to do as far as bracing and whatnot. I wasn't expecting issues, but in hindsight, I should have; my first box was even uglier!

Too many projects, too little time...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hate to bring back a thread from the dead, but I was trying to get the top off this box and, well, not gonna happen. SO! I need a way to LOSE about a half inch of height on this thing without blowing it apart. Anyone think this is possible? Or should this box go to the burn pile?

Too many projects, too little time...

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