HHR Ed Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I use liquid nail like its my job Quote Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jizazz12 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 x two on the liquid nails,but resin is always a good way to go as well. Quote 2007 Chevy Impala LS 1 Crescendo 3KWP 1Crescendo C1000/4 2 DC lvl 4 15's with lvl5 dual .7 coils 1Audio Control Matrix 1 Pioneer P880PRS 1 300 amp Iraggi alt All power runs done with Knu flex 0/1 guage 1 optima yellow top under the hood 1 XS 5100 and two Deka's in the trunk 4 Crescendo MP-8 mid bass drivers 2 DB Drive p5 5 D Pro Audio tweeters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noob_On_Droid Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 (edited) Resin will be the strongest and best solution in your situation. If your panels are structurally sound and have the coin thickness gap you can just grab a $0.99 small tube of clear silicone II and fill the gap. Everybody starts somewhere and I have filled quarter inch gaps with tons of silicone and it still holds solid to this day. No, I will not post pix of the enclosure ha ha Edited January 25, 2010 by Noobtastic14_On_Blackberry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 expanding foam maybe would work?? not much but a lil to seal the gap? other then that like hhr ed said liquid nails ftw and some resin Quote 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joni13 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 i just built a box for a truck due to the angles of the front baffle the cuts were not perfect so i taped off the outside and put lots of resin btw thats also how i do my 45s Quote RIP The 03 prix! New Ride 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 4 DC LVL 4 18s (2 currently installed) 2 DC PAI.2000 (1 currently installed) 1 DC PAI-120.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I use liquid nail like its my job ^^This. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Resin will be the strongest and best solution in your situation. If your panels are structurally sound and have the coin thickness gap you can just grab a $0.99 small tube of clear silicone II and fill the gap. Everybody starts somewhere and I have filled quarter inch gaps with tons of silicone and it still holds solid to this day. No, I will not post pix of the enclosure ha ha Pics or Ban! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakerider1533 Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 I did mine with mat and resin, and it's easy quick and cheap but buy it from ace or lowes becuase wal mart is evilll Quote '06 Mustang GT 5spd Sundown X10 Sundown SAE 1500.1 Optima Yellow Top D31 Pioneer 7' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted January 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 I did glue it like nobody's business, but some of my cuts were a little wonky (first time with a circ. saw) and my eye isn't apparently perfectly straight at 1:30 AM, so I didnt catch some small gaps until I felt the air shooting out of them. Although, on the staying together front, I do need some more bracing than I have right now. Might have to get some dowels in there when I start slinging 'glass. This box has really been a learning curve for me. My last 'two' boxes (I rebaffled my first to fix wonky sub placement and switch to bigger PVC ports) were both tube ported, divorced chamber boxes, so the center wall kinda served as bracing I guess? This is my first slot port and common chamber, so I'm frankly not surprised I underestimated what I would need to do as far as bracing and whatnot. I wasn't expecting issues, but in hindsight, I should have; my first box was even uglier! Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hate to bring back a thread from the dead, but I was trying to get the top off this box and, well, not gonna happen. SO! I need a way to LOSE about a half inch of height on this thing without blowing it apart. Anyone think this is possible? Or should this box go to the burn pile? Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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