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Need help with Big 3


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Hey so, its spring break and I want to rebuild in tht time, ive been waiting a long time to do re build so I can wait to get going.

Im running my 4 Fubars, 1 Saz3000D like before, but in the back seat now not in the trunk, im working roughly with about 9 cubes etc etc

Anyway I never did the big 3 and im thinking i should prolly do tht.

My issues:

The alt has a shroud around the back side feeding out like a blower, and the charging posts etc are behind said shroud, how to get it off.

Second Ive been looking for the engine to chassis ground, and cant find it, is it underneath (havent looked there yet)

Third can I just make the new ground for the bat in the locale i have circled?

Lastly is the fuse absolutely neccessary on the posi charging wire? Ive seen a few big threes w/o fuse

I know what im doing in theory and Ive put together several lil systems and im ok with cars and working on em and building em i just like some other opinions before i do anything, it can hurt to ask right/

anyway heres the pix

23479_405459452795_527012795_5244885_7199084_n.jpg

23479_405459477795_527012795_5244886_6983792_n.jpg

23479_405459497795_527012795_5244887_1865394_n.jpg

23479_405459517795_527012795_5244888_2235921_n.jpg

This is the neg it runs down by the control arm i think

23479_405461847795_527012795_5244891_6108695_n.jpg

possible new ground spots ???

Lemme know whatcha thinks, and thanks again

P4Killer

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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i got a question about the big 3 too,

should/are you going to take out all the factory wires that the big 3 wires are replacing???

or is it ok to leave them in there and they'll be fine?

you can leave them on there, the energy is going to take the path with the least resistance (the thicker wire),

leaving them on there can save you if one of the wires ever comes out of the terminal or something.

2 fi btl 18s on 2 crescendo 3500s walled in a 2dr 2000 alero build log

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141663-2-walled-btls-18-on-7k-in-a-2000-2dr-alero/

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When I did mine I replaced all factory with 4 gauge then added 0 to that. That way I knew all my wires and grounds were good

Team NWSPL

baaudio Build Log

2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough

4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k

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Yea leave the factory but any

tips for me would be nice

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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one of the best Big 3 video i've seen

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(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

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Hey so, its spring break and I want to rebuild in tht time, ive been waiting a long time to do re build so I can wait to get going.

Im running my 4 Fubars, 1 Saz3000D like before, but in the back seat now not in the trunk, im working roughly with about 9 cubes etc etc

Anyway I never did the big 3 and im thinking i should prolly do tht.

My issues:

The alt has a shroud around the back side feeding out like a blower, and the charging posts etc are behind said shroud, how to get it off.

If you cant access or find the negative bolt to your alternator then dont bother doing the alt to chassis ground

Second Ive been looking for the engine to chassis ground, and cant find it, is it underneath (havent looked there yet)

The engine to chassis ground is basically locating a metal bolt from your engine (somewere were its metal and were fluids cant get too) to your chassis ground

The hardest spot about finding the engine to chassis ground is locating a bolt that doesnt really get hot (best time to tell is when it gets warm outside)

Third can I just make the new ground for the bat in the locale i have circled?

I mean you could but thats not really a good spot since its directly under the hood and water and a whole bunch of debris can get there. Also when connecting the last 2 negative runs to your chassis ground try using some rust free products (since rust is something thats gona happen over the years)

Also forgot to mention does your car not have a factory ground from the battery to chassis? Or is it that wire that you circled thats runs down?

Lastly is the fuse absolutely neccessary on the posi charging wire? Ive seen a few big threes w/o fuse

The fuse is basically insurance on your ride. You dont wanna be a rolling fire hazard do you? Also use a fuse a little bit bigger than your alt can put out

I know what im doing in theory and Ive put together several lil systems and im ok with cars and working on em and building em i just like some other opinions before i do anything, it can hurt to ask right/

anyway heres the pix

possible new ground spots ???

Lemme know whatcha thinks, and thanks again

P4Killer

2003 Mercury Marauder Black (R.I.P)

Tinted Windows

Purple HID's 10000K

Fog Light HID's 10000K

Swi Jack Steering Wheel Controls

Apple I-Pod Classic 80GB

Alpine KCE-422i Full Speed I-Pod Cable

Alpine IVA-W203/P1 Navigation/Bluetooth

Alpine PKG-M780 7' Headrest Screens

Alpine PXA-H701 Sound Processor

Alpine MRP-F300 4 Channel Amp

Rockford Fosgate 1501bd Power Amp

2 Kicker L7 15' Solo Barics

Alpine Type R SPR-17S Component's

Alpine Type R SPR-57C Coaxial's

Monster Performance RCA's

0/2 Gauge Wires

BIG III W/Fuse

200 Amps Custom Built Alternator

Yellow Cap Optima Battery Front

Xstatic Batcap 800 Back

Custom Mounted Bass Knob

LED's 2x License & Trunk Light

BoYo VTK-350 Color Backup Camera

Dynamat Xtreme Front Doors & Rear Deck

Clifford Matrix 50.7X Alarm System/Remote Start

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Ill do some more research but I was mainly stuck on removing that Cover

. Thanks for the replies though

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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