speedball1978 Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I already know what the big 3 upgrade is , 1/0 battery to engine block, another from battery to chassis, then battery to alt... Well thats where the problem ends, battery to alt, there isn't one, it actually runs to the starter, anyone know of any complications with this. ITs a 2009 chevy malibu, i can access my alt, but... where the f^%& do i hook it up to, should i leave the stock cable from battery to starter alone or junk it for the 1/0 wire, the other question is do i fuse that wire (battery to alt)?. Third question, i got my second battery in the trunk with an isolator, is this the proper set up or should i be running the wire straight from main battery to the trunk battery without the isolator??? please advise me Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNF Kevosinn Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I can answer a few of your questions. 1. fusing between alt and battery is not needed but is strongly advised as a saftey precaution. 2. get rid of the battery Isolator it only causes unneeded resistance . how big is your alt? you may want to do 2 runs of 1/0 to the back battery to improve flow Quote *** SuperSeller Status Verified *** ( http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers/ ) "kevosinn's" astro van 8 custom Sundown Zv4 18's 4 Sundown scv 6000's CNF Distribution CNC parts Skyhigh wire some batteries SMD Meters and tools used on the installhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/172877-kevosinns-vanwest-coast-skyhigh-car-audio-vehicle/ 16,000 watt walled silverado build.http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161965-walled-silverado-4-hdc4-15s-4-crescendo-3500s-and-much-more/ 8,000 watt 1999 Subaru legacy outback. Build log here: http://www.stevemead...ru/page__st__60TEAM CNF Distribution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I can answer a few of your questions. 1. fusing between alt and battery is not needed but is strongly advised as a saftey precaution. 2. get rid of the battery Isolator it only causes unneeded resistance . how big is your alt? you may want to do 2 runs of 1/0 to the back battery to improve flow its a stock 130 amp alt, as far as upgrading, i would have to do that sometime later down the road, but i like the answer you gave me about the isolator, makes sense now why i'm getting voltage drop on the hard hits, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Leave all existing OEM wiring in place. The big 3 is in addition to the OEM wiring. Run the 1/0 from the positive terminal on the alt to the positive terminal on the battery. Battery negative to chassis ground. Battery negative to the alternator mount if you can, otherwise to the engine block. If you have 1/0 going to the trunk, lose the isolator and make sure you have a 300amp fuse on each end of that 1/0 within 18 inches of the front and back batteries. Quote 97 Maxima SE Bunch of shit going in, check out the build Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Lol there should be a bolt SOMEWHERE on your alt. And depending on how much power you are running, one run of 1/0 to the back should be fine. What all equipment are you using? That info could help a bit. Quote On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobonit Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Just reread the question about the alt. There will be a plug that has some small wires on it, and there should be one fat wire going to a bolt on it. You want to put your wire on the same bolt as that fat wire (its probably 8 or 4 gauge). Quote 97 Maxima SE Bunch of shit going in, check out the build Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Just reread the question about the alt. There will be a plug that has some small wires on it, and there should be one fat wire going to a bolt on it. You want to put your wire on the same bolt as that fat wire (its probably 8 or 4 gauge). lol, i've checked several times in the past few days, thats why i haven't upgraded yet, its a 4 banger motor, so i don't have easy access to the alt but i can see the alt just fine, and i ran my hand from the battery and both positive wires run from battery to starter and another from battery to the fuse box with a 80 amp inline fuse... may i ask why i need to run 300 amp fuses, i'm only running 3 kicker cvx's 12's , a pa1-4000d amp, avh-3200dvd head unit. all my wiring is 4 gauge with a shuriken btk-80 which is 80 amp/hr rated at 1900 watts of surge power, the amp runs at 1 ohm stable 2200 watts give and take a few, but soon i'll upgrade the amp cuz i'm running at .67 ohm load on the amp, to my suprise it doesn't get hot, just warm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted June 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Just reread the question about the alt. There will be a plug that has some small wires on it, and there should be one fat wire going to a bolt on it. You want to put your wire on the same bolt as that fat wire (its probably 8 or 4 gauge). lol, i've checked several times in the past few days, thats why i haven't upgraded yet, its a 4 banger motor, so i don't have easy access to the alt but i can see the alt just fine, and i ran my hand from the battery and both positive wires run from battery to starter and another from battery to the fuse box with a 80 amp inline fuse... may i ask why i need to run 300 amp fuses, i'm only running 3 kicker cvx's 12's , a pa1-4000d amp, avh-3200dvd head unit. all my wiring is 4 gauge with a shuriken btk-80 which is 80 amp/hr rated at 1900 watts of surge power, the amp runs at 1 ohm stable 2200 watts give and take a few, but soon i'll upgrade the amp cuz i'm running at .67 ohm load on the amp, to my suprise it doesn't get hot, just warm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 may i ask why i need to run 300 amp fuses You aren't fusing the equipment, you're fusing the wire. The wire is rated to 300 amps, so in order to allow it to run as much current as it can, you fuse it at 300 amps. Fusing it lower won't hurt anything, but it will make it so that if the wire tries to pull more power then it will pop the fuse. Its when you fuse higher than the wire's rating that it becomes dangerous. Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.