Slawsen Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Have someone install fans inside the amps? 00' Nissan Xterra Always under construction :] HU: Pioneer DEH3100-UB Mids & Highs: Kicker DS Component Set & Crescendo tweeters Mids & Highs Amp: Rockford 150.2 Subwoofer: 2 DC Audio LV 4 18"s Subwoofer Amp: Hifonics Brutus 2005d you been hanging out with jeff and dustin with that green paint? its yellow so it has to be loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 those xt1600's just run hot as shit man. Id swap it out. i use these fans http://www.pricedbelowmarket.com/computer-parts-hardware-fans-delta-electronics-inc-afb0612ehe-fan-209316.html Best fuckin fan ever. pull the back plate off the amp, and stick 1 of these under it. 2008 California state record holder 157.2 Bassrace2009 California state record holder 157.0 BassraceRollin 50's 158.7db2009 King of Cali Bassrace2009 USACi score 160.5 @ 42hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techforce Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 those xt1600's just run hot as shit man. Id swap it out. i use these fans http://www.pricedbelowmarket.com/computer-parts-hardware-fans-delta-electronics-inc-afb0612ehe-fan-209316.html Best fuckin fan ever. pull the back plate off the amp, and stick 1 of these under it. Here's what I got... I have 2 6.5's, 1 5x7 and 1 tweeter on each channel, to a 1.9-2.0 ohm load... Any ideas on what amp to use that would run cooler? I was thinking about the AQ4x90 amp. IDK if it would run cooler or be any better of an amp??? Does anyone here run a AQ4x90 at 2 ohm stereo and how hot does it get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autruche Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Hmm, here's my idea, take the tops of the cases off of the amps and cut out a new plexiglass one, and install in and out fans on them and call it a day. Maybe put a couple of ccfl's in the amps then to give them character. add a relay to the remote line to turn on all of the fans and amps, otherwise water cooling would be badass but a pain in the ass. Maybe, if you are going to cut a hole in your truck, just run some pvc piping to an ac output to put some ac back there... Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 forgive me for not reading though most of this but here is my take on it... the airspace back there is very small. its sealed off by the hatch and by the box so air is not circulating. fans in the area will help but without a supply of cool air itll just get hotter and hotter and your just blowing hot air onto hot amps. you need a way to get cool air in and hot air out. a decent sized "push/pull" fan setup in the floor would do it. dont make it something that requires you to be driving for it to work. and the AC ideas... what about at night when you dont have the AC on, turn the air off or maybe even the heater on. plus you dont have a good way to get the old hot air out of that chamber. just doesnt sound reliable to me. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techforce Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Hmm, here's my idea, take the tops of the cases off of the amps and cut out a new plexiglass one, and install in and out fans on them and call it a day. Maybe put a couple of ccfl's in the amps then to give them character. add a relay to the remote line to turn on all of the fans and amps, otherwise water cooling would be badass but a pain in the ass. Maybe, if you are going to cut a hole in your truck, just run some pvc piping to an ac output to put some ac back there... I was going to run the rear roof ac vents back there, but needed every bit of room for cabinet... I need to upgrade that amp because it is not that good of an amp in the first place... Just don't know which direction to go with the new amp... don't want the same problem... Plus... I am broke as hell now! LOL! HEY EVERYONE?! ORDER SOME DECALS SO I CAN BUY ME A NEW AMP!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techforce Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 forgive me for not reading though most of this but here is my take on it... the airspace back there is very small. its sealed off by the hatch and by the box so air is not circulating. fans in the area will help but without a supply of cool air itll just get hotter and hotter and your just blowing hot air onto hot amps. you need a way to get cool air in and hot air out. a decent sized "push/pull" fan setup in the floor would do it. dont make it something that requires you to be driving for it to work. The only spot I have in the back is under the epicenter to the left of the batteries.. BUT.. the frame is DIRECTLY under it... Cannot go through the floor... thought about making a slot/vent between the floor and the back hatch... I also thought about running a 4 inch pvc through the cabinet from the front to the back amp rack, but it would displace too much in the cabinet... It is JUST BARELY enough room for 6 15's behind the back seat... I can't go that route... As I said before... painted myself into a corner I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex K Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 is there a way you can run some sort of ac tubes under the car, then bring the up inside? 2006 Nissan Z Track. My Feedback Thread i used to think a band pass was something you were around your neck or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 there has to be a way... in the edges of the box that run front to back do you have 45*s? you could take those out and add 2" pvc then glass them into the edge to make a new 45*. i know 2" isnt much but its better than nothing. put a fan on each end of the pipe to make as efficient as possible. one tube blows, the other sucks. you could cut holes in the hatch but you would need a cowl to keep water out... maybe you can use the lip just above the license plate. cut a wide hole there. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techforce Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 is there a way you can run some sort of ac tubes under the car, then bring the up inside? There's no room on the floor to get a duct into the back... the frame sits right where the only free spot is... there has to be a way... in the edges of the box that run front to back do you have 45*s? you could take those out and add 2" pvc then glass them into the edge to make a new 45*. i know 2" isnt much but its better than nothing. put a fan on each end of the pipe to make as efficient as possible. one tube blows, the other sucks. you could cut holes in the hatch but you would need a cowl to keep water out... maybe you can use the lip just above the license plate. cut a wide hole there. I might be able to do the tubes through the back hatch and get cowls... I am going to look into that as an option... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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