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Posted

very nice and cleen I like it

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previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

Posted

you and meade, both - completely nuts man. I LOVE IT. I wish I had looked into a tahoe a little more when I bought my ride last year. I am really liking the painted top plate. Clean, and shiny. good job man.

2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue

my upgrades and "build" thread.

My Kulicki Box Build

-Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars

-Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash )

-JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi

- Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box.

-Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio

-All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0,

-270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum-

-2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back

FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz.

Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties
Posted

Lookin great Tej...I love that it turned out so well for ya

A half-wit gave you a piece of his mind, and you held on to it.

My Youtube vids...enjoyDC.jpgdcsig-1.jpg2pt8a6w.png

anythings possible with the right build =] we accept visa and mastercard =]

Posted

NICE!!


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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Posted

Thanks everyone, I know it means something with the amount of talent I've seen in your builds. I'm not going to get too faggy with it, so on to pics :blush:

I'm putting the other 3 amps in, but mainly so I can see where to put some trim panels. I may hook up the power and grounds, but just for looks and so when I get the electrical backed up all I have to do is hook up the speakers to their designated amp.

Several reasons for the panels:

1. It looks more flush

2. It will make it just that much harder to get to the lower amps to steal them, and impossible to remove the box without removing them first (time consuming).

I'm just dryfitting things in place, but here's where the amps go on the sides. They really won't be visible. At night you can sort of see the Memphis logo glowing through the tint, but only barely.

Posted Image

Posted Image

More as work gets done- I'll have to place an order for wire and fuse holders soon- I don't want to use Raptor 1/0 lol.

tejcurrent

XS Power

T3

Posted

you and meade, both - completely nuts man. I LOVE IT. I wish I had looked into a tahoe a little more when I bought my ride last year. I am really liking the painted top plate. Clean, and shiny. good job man.

haha they are!!! wish i have bought a hoe instead maybe soon but no damn 4 (18's) lol maybe 15's :D

.....but you and steve is on top lol i dont think noone coming close to you as a daily/family car lol

Posted

I want to start by saying AWESOME work bro!!! I love it when someone is so passionate about this stuff and is not afraid to try something soo extreme in a daily driver. You have just about got everything down, my suggestions are strictly my thoughts on electrical charging systems and I recommend doing research before making any decisions on options i present to you, that being said:

batteries are merely a storage device, they do not up voltage or produce anything of value. In order to maintain voltage and amperage you must produce enough current at a high enough voltage to charge them. A stock alternator cannot effectively charge a battery bank like yours even under normal load conditions, let alone the extreme draw you place on it. Steve is testing a new product from MLA that can up your voltage output on your stock alternator and you can use it in conjunction with another (using a dual alternator bracket) high output alternator of your choice. I like the guys from db electric they make a good product that wont break the bank (about $250 for a HO alt for your truck with an under drive pulley already installed). I would also look into changing your stock alternator pulley with a smaller diameter one so you will have a higher charge rate at engine idle. Total cost if you do it all yourself will be under $500 and you will net around 400 amps at 15.6 volts or around $700 if you change out the stock alt with another HO for a total of 500 amps at 15.6 volts (more than enough for you if you mainly keep it on moderate volumes with the occasional DB burp)

I have ruined several batteries thinking that the alt is keeping up with the battery bank's needs, I highly recommend purchasing a good battery maintainer that you can plug in to the truck while you are at home to help keep the batteries fresh and topped off (I plug mine in every time i pull into the garage). The batteryminder I use is the model# 12248 and it works very well for a $100 investment.

You are off to an amazing start with this build, and definitely have way more patients and determination than most people to have stuck with it and done such a great job. Again I am not bashing your install at all, it is among the best i have seen from a DIY'er. Along with that Dom over at Irraggi, the guys at Powermaster and Ohio Generator have great products, my recommendation for alternators is strictly a cost per amp comparison.

Hope this helps out, keep on posting those pics and vids so we can all share in your accomplishments

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

Posted

Thanks a lot john_john, Steve Meade definitely has me on performance, looks, and imo his is the better install all around- but being compared to him is surely a compliment :blush: .

Sully- thanks for the very precise info, really a big help, and the compliments as well. I have a normal trickle charger I've used once in a while- but I'm sure not like I should. I meant for the stock alternator to be a very temporary thing, but I've left it struggling much longer than I anticipated. :(

This upcoming week I'm going to buy the 4 alternator bracket from Dominick Iraggi and let the fun begin! I should have all 4 alternators running by the beginning of may, and the battery/wiring changes finished within the following few weeks. I talked with someone from MLA about the module you're talking about and I was considering buying one, but I think I'm going to go a different direction with power all together.

Thanks for the advice on the idler too, wouldn't have even thought about it.

tejcurrent

XS Power

T3

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