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RPM drops when bass hits..


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Posted

Ok, I guess I can't really get the answer I want unless I get pretty detailed. So here it goes...

I have three old school Precision Power Art Series amplifiers (all Class AB, two A600.2's (150x2 @ 4 ohms each), and an A1200.2 (1200watts at 4 ohms bridged). There are two eighty amp fuses on the A1200.2. The A1200.2 is powering one Image Dynamics IDMAX12V3D2 at 4 ohms bridged. The sub's dual voice coils are wired in series for a near 4 ohm load on the meter at rest. One A600.2 is powering some CDT PSS6i 6.75" mid bass. The other A600.2 is pushing CDT PSS spec ES-01 tweets and ES-02 mids.

I have a 200 amp Iraggi alternator. I forget if it is a Dominator or Amputator but it is the better one of the two models. I clamped the 1/0 wire off of the alternator to the battery at 170 amps at about 1200 rpm (cold idle) using an amp clamp meter.

I have a Die Hard Platinum AGM battery under the hood of my '94 Accord EX coupe. It tested at 100% state of health with a Midtronics battery tester.

I have 1/0 going from the alternator to the battery (fused at the battery). I have a 1/0 ground off of the alternator to the subframe as suggested in the instructions from Iraggi. I have a 1/0 ground for the battery going to the subframe. I replaced all of the factory power and ground wiring to 4 gauge. I am going to change the ground wire off of the engine to 1/0 (It is 4 gauge right now). All of the grounds have been sanded. I have a 1/0 power wire going to a solenoid in the trunk which then goes to a brand new XS Power D6500 which I charged with an AGM tester that doesn't go over 14.2 volts before I put it in my car. The battery has a 1/0 ground going to the seat belt at the moment. It is sanded down also. All of my ring terminals are soldered and then crimped with a pair of giant crimpers.

I metered the XS power battery while music is playing and it reads 13.8 volts at the lowest up to about 14.4 volts. The battery under the hood reads about the same voltage.

The problem is that whenever the bass hits, the car's idle drops. I realize that the idle drops whenever the car's ECU sends a request to the alternator to charge the battery via the exciter wire. I just don't think the idle should be dropping every time the bass hits with the charging system I have to back up my amplifiers' current demands. Please help! Thank you in advance for your time!

'94 Honda Accord EX coupe (may be getting an '04 Accord EX coupe soon):

Iraggi 200 amp Amputator alternator

Alumapro 15 farad CAP

1/0 Knukoncepts wire throughout w/the Big 3 underhood

10 gauge speaker wire

Q-Logic kick panels

Scosche HEXAD RCA's

XS Power D6500 (2nd battery)

Die Hard Platinum AGM battery (main battery)

4 Horizontal Fans

144 sq. ft. Dynamat Extreme

Dynaxorb panels inside the doors behind the mid bass

Eclipse CD-7200mkII w/IPC-106 iPod module

Precision Power A600.2 (2) (150x2 @ 4 ohms)w/Power Class adapters

Precision Power A1200.2 (1200 watts @ 4 ohms bridged) w/ Power Class adapters

CDT ES-01 tweets, ES-02 mids (both PSS spec)

CDT PSS 6iM midbass

CDT MX-1000 passive crossovers

Image Dynamics IDMAX12 in 1.3 cu.ft. sealed

Posted

had similar issues in my 95 civic. My distributor cap was corroded at the contacts. Changed that, the plug wires, and the plugs. Not near as bad now.

God damn its hot today. My balls are stuck to my leg.

Posted

just sounds like youre putting a load on the alt when blaring it at idle.. i can play my system up to about 2/3 before the RPM gauge starts to dip a little.

wizv.jpg

200a alt. by Excessive Amperage

hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear

1/0awg + big 3

SAZ 3000D

HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm

Posted

tl:dr but alls that means when the RPM's drop when bass hits means your alternator is being put under load, which makes it much harder to spin so the engine has to work harder to spin it. perfectly normal

Posted

The problem is that whenever the bass hits, the car's idle drops. I realize that the idle drops whenever the car's ECU sends a request to the alternator to charge the battery via the exciter wire. I just don't think the idle should be dropping every time the bass hits with the charging system I have to back up my amplifiers' current demands. Please help! Thank you in advance for your time!

It takes energy to make energy.

Your electrical is creating a demand on your alternator.

Alternator is driven by engine thus putting a load on your engine.

Anytime your engine is loaded without input from your foot, it's going to drop its RPM just happens.

Nothing to worry about. :)

Posted

My alt will actually make my blazer dip in speed if I'm holding a constant 50mph, a constant bass note will drop it 2-3mph under the same accelerator force.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted

I have a similar issue with my car. But mine tends to acctualy stall as the notes hit. Even with just the speaker amp I get minor stalling issues with the volume right up. With the T2000.1 in and going I have the same problem even at low volumes playing decaf's screwed stuff. Mine comes from not having idle control on a modified motor. With an idle controller it was not as bad but still happened easy enough. Have you done big 3 under the hood yet? This alone will make some improvement along with lessening the load on the alt to start with.

Systems:

Fun Car:

Deck: Alpine CDA-9887

Front sounds: Alpine SPR-175A x2

Front power: RF T400.2 Benched at 265x2 rms @ 2ohm

Subs: RF T1 10 dual 4 Ohm x1

Sub power: RF R500.1

Box yet to be built.

All in a Mazda 323 Hatch in the cargo area only.

Daily hack:

Deck: Alpine CDA-9886

Front sounds: RF T152 5.25" coax x2

Front power: RF Power T400.2

Subs: Alpine SWR-1021d x4

Sub power: RF Power T20001

4.59cuft net 56" of port tuned to 32hz.

Work ute

Deck: Alpine iDA-X303

Speakers front: Stock

Speakers rear: None

Subs: Alpine type S SWS-1040

Amp: Alpine MRV-T320 x1 for woofer.

Box 1.42 cuft 39hz hidden under tray in blow thru design.

New ute to be much different.

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